Trincomalee glistens

Script and pictures Sachitra Mahendra in Trincomalee

Sighting the blissful environs of Trincomalee after the end of a decades-old war was moving on a Tuesday morning. The war-torn background that once was has now changed to a heavy influx with carefree masses thronging to see the beauty of the sandy beaches and feel the golden sand.

Many sources such as the Internet and English reference guides link the origin of the city with a Hindu God called Koneswaran.

However P. L. Sirisena, who has been posted in Trincomalee for a long time, has authored Siri Gonamalaya hevath Tirikunamalaya (Dayawansa Jayakody publication; Rs 320), a book that brings out a different fact. Since the mountain looks like a sambhur (gona), its head and two ears, it has been called Siri Gona Kanda. It is withal called Gona Karna, Gonagala, Gonagam patuna and so on.

P. L. de Silva has written the book - probably the only comprehensive book on Trinco, to this day - in beautiful yet academic Sinhala. This is a book someone should read before setting off to the Eastern border of Sri Lanka.

The long and empty stretch of Anuradhapura-Trincomalee road may give you the creeps at times.

The road is shiny under the scorching sun. Unless you are a foreigner fond of getting a tan, you may not like the idea of getting down.

Some cadjan hut fences were embellished with palm leaves, giving you the feel of being in Jaffna, which is still miles away. The road remains almost deserted save for ubiquitous checkpoints and NGO vehicles with ironical 'no gun' stickers buzzing to and fro.

Checkpoint officers do smile and are very cooperative welcoming the guests to the city. All these top off a scarred city that was once glorious.

Unattended shrine rooms, roofless houses, cows grazing all alone, dust spewing roads, burnt wood, cracked rocks reign the area.

The city of Trincomalee has the reputation mainly for its large harbour. It houses major naval bases and an Air Force base too.

Read the sky deep into the night. Rise early to witness the daybreak sneak over the horizons with its large golden plate - sunrise, that is - and saffron rays that ring the sun add yet another blissful moment.

Koneswaram Kovil

The kovil is said to have existed even before the arrival of Prince Vijaya. The history has it that Indian Pallava, Chola and Pandya kings had contributed to the upbringing of this religious site.

The Koneswaram temple is believed to have been a major religious shrine since before the arrival of Prince Vijaya 2500 years ago. The internet encyclopedia Wikipedia says this shrine was demolished by the Buddhist King Mahasena, who 'built a Buddhist temple and Dagoba in its place', but cites no reference to support the fact. Located close by is the Swami Rock, also dubbed as Lovers' Leap, which has adorned the folklore of the city.

As one folktale reveals, two devoted lovers had made a leap from atop the mountain, but was rescued by a Swami. 'Sri Lanka Insights Guide' offers another story:

"... on account of a Dutch official's daughter, Francina van Reede, who threw herself off the rock after watching her unfaithful husband desert her by sea. Although her suicidal attempt was unsuccessful, and she went on to marry for a second time eight years after, her father erected a pillar to mark the incident."

Hot water springs

Kal and niya mean stone and land respectively in Tamil. The area is famous for its hot water wells. Each well has a high wall with a rectangular corral. Every well is believed to have a different temperature, with one well overly hot. Still and all it seems more a faith than reality.

Water gives a luxurious warm sensation even at daytime. The area is now under the control of Mari Amman Kovil. The

“Only when the ceasefire was in force, everyone was allowed to use these wells. However they were heavily taxed” - Nimalsiri

springs have separate places for changing and no footwear is allowed.

Nimalsiri, who sells victuals in a nearby stall, recalled his experiences - not exactly soft - when the wells were under the control of the LTTE.

"Only when the ceasefire was in force, everyone was allowed to use these wells. However they were heavily taxed."

Nimalsiri lives in Mihindupura, a Sinhalese-dominant village. During the wartime the Sinhalese had tipped off the Forces about the Tiger activities.

"We saw how things happened. Many NGOs were behind these activities. There was a bank manager who masterminded hartals. We tipped off about him and he was arrested. We were cooperative with the army wherever possible. We were given weapons for our security as well."

Grandeur of a war-time cemetery

During the World War II Ceylon was a main naval Air Force base against Japan. The British used the eastern border for the jungle warfare training. The British who died in the war were honoured on six cemeteries: four in Colombo, one each in Kandy and Trincomalee. Trincomalee cemetery's grandeur is second only to that of Kandy, indicating the British's flair for lush sense of landscape. It doesn't scare the visitors, as it is supposed to be. The cemetery is located outside Trinco, on Nilaveli road. The cemetery is looked after by a soft spoken watcher who is willing to give any information about the history of the cemetery. Every visitor is requested to write their comments on the guest book before leaving the cemetery.

Epigraphs: Though far away, you will live forever in our tenderest memories. There is a land of the living and a land of the dead; And the bridge is love. Their name liveth for evermore

Keep your beach clean

Nilaveli - the 'blue waters', if loosely translated into English - doesn't let you touch the waters, if you are a nature admirer. You would be more fond of looking far ahead and feel the joy of the glistening tide and the waves, too arresting to forget. Turquoise waves jostle into each other with you basking in nature's wonder. Lay your bare feet on the sunny golden sand and fix your thoughts: serenity steals your mood for a while.

Sri Lanka is blessed with such beautiful beach scenery. Many seem almost virgin, compared with numerous foreign beaches. Foreigners are keen about our beaches because of its cleanliness. Yet it doesn't seem so in the eastern beaches. Human waste have now fouled them. All the beaches have become the dooryards of mushrooming tourist hotels. Many hotel structures do not have any aesthetic sense either; their owners do not seem to think about nature too. All the waste of these luxurious hotels are drained to the beach, drawing more crows than tourists.