Beyond batik: Indonesia promotes untapped textiles

Indonesia's batiks have long been familiar on the global fashion scene, but what is little known is that the vast archipelago has almost as many traditional fabrics as it has islands.

This is largely due to geographical accident, explains Jasmin Wirjawan, who organised a gala evening in Paris showcasing the work of three of Indonesia's top designers using "tenun", as the handwoven textiles are known.

"Batiks come from Java, historically the trade centre," where the capital Jakarta is located. "In the past communications with other islands were not well coordinated."

Tenun come from all over the country, every region having its own variants using different colours and raw materials, distinctive motifs and techniques, from Bali's "ikats" to Sumatra's gold threaded "songkets".

Hand-weaving in Indonesia can be traced back over 2,300 years and reflects its position as a cultural melting pot.

Indian, Chinese, Arab traders and even Europeans have all left their mark. Cita Tenun Indonesia, the country's woven cloths association, is behind a drive to promote tenun on the international fashion market.

That included a strong presence at Paris' Pret a Porter trade salon this week, a source of inspiration for top designers of the likes of Dries van Noten, who is known for bringing ethnic influence into his work.

But Oscar Lawalata, one of the designers in Paris, is equally keen to boost domestic demand. The problem, he says, is that tenun are associated in people's minds with traditional costumes and ceremonial wear.

"I am trying to develop textiles in a modern style, so that they can be worn every day."

He has been working closely with weavers in East Nusa Tenggara over the past three years to introduce new technology alongside traditional methods, "half machine, half by hand, so they can produce a bigger quantity, so it is more efficient and faster." It has also improved their income.

AFP