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| Wednesday, 17 November 2004 |
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The 'Magul Uyana' in ancient Anuradhapura by Derrick Schokman When we think of the sacred city of Anuradhapura, what we remember are the ancient religious monuments, which still attract thousands of devotees every year. What we forget are the spectacular achievements in secular architecture and sculpture. One such secular masterpiece is the "Magul Uyana" or Royal Garden adjoining the Meghagiri shrine near the Tisawewa. This shrine was until recently mistaken for Isurumuniya or Isarasamanarama where King Devanampiyatissa's nephew and 500 nobles resided after they became "bhikkus". Their residence has now been identified as Vessagiri. The Meghagiri shrine together with the "Magul Uyana" is one of the loveliest spots in old Anuradhapura. The little square pool in the foreground of the shrine is supplied by water from the Tisawewa. Loveliest The pool is overshadowed by a Bodhi Tree, and the surrounding black rocks are reflected in its waters. There is a striking bas-relief in these rocks of elephants descending into the pool. The Royal Garden was excavated and imaginatively conserved by Dr. Senerat Paranavitana, one time Commissioner of Archaeology. It is said to contain the baths of King Dutthagamini (161-137 BC), the water being supplied by canals from the Tisawewa. Baths The baths are excellently sited to make the best use of a group of boulders. Cut out of the rock and constructed in stone masonry, they have an almost Greek simplicity.
Dr. Paranavitana described them as follows: "The two baths and the chamber form together a well balanced architectural group. The keynote of the whole composition is its simplicity, characteristic of Sinhalese architecture at its best. "Ornamentation is reduced to a minimum and is now here applied inappropriately. The proportions of the various parts of each structure, and of the different structures in relation to one another, are harmonious. The lines are perfect and the stone work exhibits the finish and technical excellence of a high order. "On one of the rock walls is a beautifully carved scene of elephants sporting in a lotus pool. This bas-relief has to be counted among the best products of the plastic art of the ancient Sinhalese." On top of the surrounding boulders are traces of bathing pavilions that once existed. Beyond them are ornamental pools. Restoration has been continued to even planting all the various types of trees stated by ancient poets describing such parks. Legend This Garden is the source of an interesting legend. It is said that Prince Saliya, King Dutthagamini's son and heir to the throne, spied an exceptionally beautiful maiden there, singing to herself and picking the flowers of an Asoka tree, which she wove into a garland. The Prince enquired of his retinue who this wonderful woman was, singing like a bird. He was told that she was a worthless woman of very low caste with whom the prince should have nothing to do. The Prince however was so enamoured of her that he paid no attention. Instead, going up to the maiden he asked: "Are you mortal or a goddess?" Shrinking away from him the maiden replied: "Speak not to me Noble One, for I am of a despised and degraded caste shunned by everyone. Do not let even my shadow fall on you lest shame befall you and your good father." "What is your name?" the Prince persisted. "My name is Devi", she replied, "I came here only to pick these flowers." Holding her hand the prince continued: "Henceforth you shall be known as Asokamala Devi (Devi of the Asoka garland). I must have been wedded to you in a previous life, and wedded we must be in this and successive lives." So it was fated that Prince Saliya and Asokamala should marry, but at the cost of his relinquishing the throne, because her low birth was a disqualification. When King Dutthagamini died, his brother Saddha Tissa ascended the throne. This echo from a distant past must surely revive a modern-day memory of an English King, Edward VIII, who was compelled to give up the throne for not choosing the right kind of lady to be his queen. At one time there was a stone slab sculpture called "The Lovers" in the Meghagiri, which helped to fuel the popular legend of Prince Saliya and Asokamala. That sculpture is no longer there. Since it has no religious significance, it has been removed to the Archaeological Museum nearby. It is well worth seeing, as one of the rare examples of fine secular sculpture excavated so far. **** Back **** |
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