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Senkadagala Esala Perahera - sublime pageant

by S. B. Karalliyadda

The historic Esala Perahera pageant will parade the streets of Senkadagala on the last week of this month of Esala. The history of this pageant goes back to the period of Kithsirimevan (303-331) during whose reign the Sacred Tooth Relic of the Lord Buddha was sent by King Guhaseeva of Kalinga through the Princess Hemamala and Prince Dhantha.

It is recorded that King Kithsirimevan spent nine lakhs of currency to organise a festival to receive the relics and take them in a procession to Abayagiri Viharaya. The Tooth Relic was deposited in a shrine room named "Dhatadatugara" built by King Dewanampiyatissa. Kithsirimevan by a royal decree declared that the Tooth Relic should be taken in a procession once a year from the shrine room to Abayagiri. This is the origin of Dalada Perahera which has lasted continuously for over 1700 years up to now.

When the kingdoms changed from Anuradhapura to Polonnaruwa and from there to Yapahuwa, Dambadeniya, Kurunegala, Gampola and Kotte, the rituals of the Dalada Perahera have been observed uninterruptedly by our kings. These rituals have become part of our Buddhist culture and civilisation due to long observation by the Sri Lankans.

Even when the Tooth Relic was removed temporarily to places of safety the annual perahera to pay homage has been held. It is recorded that even in places like Pusulpitiya and Kotmale, Beligala, Denagamuwa in Seethawaka, Hanguranketa, Keulgama, Medamahanuwara in Dumbara where the relics were concealed, the Dalada Perahera has been held. It has become part of our culture because the king was the custodian of the relic and people did not accept any one as their king without the custody of the relics. It has been the practice of the kings to take possession of the relics by war or peace.

In the reign of Mahinda V (982-1029), the Buddhist priests who performed the "Thevava" fled to Ruhunu after a Chola king captured the country. It was Keerthi, better known as Maha Vijayaba (1055-1110), who drove the Cholas away and brought back the relics to start his rule from Polonnaruwa. His successor Nissanka Malla (1187-1196), too ruled from Polonnaruwa and built a temple for the Tooth Relic and conducted the annual perahera.

He walked behind the perahera with his queens. Rajasinghe II (1634-1684) of Senkadagala, who neglected the performance of this ritual for two years consecutively had to face a coup in Nilambe and had to leave Senkadagala in disguise to remote Galabodawatta village in present Mada Dumbara.

The last Sinhala king, Weera Parakrama Narendrasinghe's (1706-1739) reign ended with the ascending to the throne of the first Nayakkara King, Sri Wijaya Rajasinghe (1739-1747).

Senkadagala regime

The king having realised that he must become a Buddhist to rule the country embraced Buddhism. He also learnt Buddhism and caused the Bhikkhus who deserted the city to come back. Keerthi Sri Rajasinghe (1747-1782) who succeeded him was the king who made Esala Perahera a procession to pay homage to Sri Dalada and thus it was named "Dalada Perahera." Veliwita Sri Asarana Sarana Saranankara, who was the Sangaraja at the time was responsible for this transformation.

By now there was the influence of Hinduism as the queens who were Hindus had to be provided facilities to practise their religion. Hence several Hindu temples were built in the premises of the Dalada Maligawa for the performance of religious rites of the queens. But the Nayakkara king observed the "perasirith" of their Sinhalese counterparts to win the confidence of the people.

The Dewale Perahera formed a part of the main festival and the king with his queens walked in the perahera. Robert Knox records that the king rode on horse back at the tail end of the procession. "Rajakariya" were performed by the "Nila Pangu" holders of Maligawa lands. They had specific duties to perform. In fact there were some festivals where the king personally participated.

"Alut Sahal Mangallaya," offering alms with new paddy harvest, Karthikeya - new lights festival and the Esala Perahera were chief among them. Before Kirthi Sri Rajasinghe made this a Dalada festival it was known as a festival of gods, "Dev Keliya". Moratora Dhammakkanda the then Mahanayaka of Malwatte said the king as seen walking in the "Dev Keliya Festival".

For the people of Kanda Uda Pas Rata there is no other festival holier than this. Esala Perahera the most spectacular cultural pageant of Asia comes to an end with the Water Cutting Ceremony or "Diya Kepeeme Mangallaya."

Water Cutting

The Dalada Perahera started long before the Senkadagala Esala festival, during the reign of Gajaba (114-36). History records that a Chola king during the reign of Wankanasika Tissa (111-114), Gajaba's father, came to Lanka and took away 12,000 people as labourers to build a bridge over river Kaveri. King Gajaba went to India with his giant, Neela, through the Palk Strait cutting the sea water with his sword, "Yagadava". He not only brought the 12,000 taken as labourers but an additional 12,000 as prisoners. These people were settled in Alutkuru and Paranakuru Korale and the additional 12,000 at Dolosdahaspattu in the present Western province.

It is to commemorate this event that the water cutting ceremony is held at Getambe at the end of the Dalada Perahera. With the termination of Kandy Esala Perahera, the religious festival of the devalas devoted to gods commences. Perahera dedicated to God Saman who is supposed to be the lord of Sabaragamuwa starts at the Maha Saman Devala of Ratnapura. Concurrently the perahera of the Upulvan Devala at Devinuwara commences.

There is a school of thought who believe that Upulvan is another name for Vishnu.

The perahera of Hanguranketa and Alutnuwara Vishnu Devalas too are held this month. There are two other devalas in Adams Peak dedicated to God Devol where the annual Esala Perahera is held. They are Kehelgamuwa and Wataddara. Numerous other devalas celebrate this season throughout the length and breadth of the country. These gods are Weeramunda, Megawarna, Henakanda Biso Bandara, Devala Bandara, Pitiye, Kalukumara, Dedimunda, Gange Bandara, Kosomba, Kadawara, Irugal Bandara, Kande, Keerthi Bandara, Menike Bandara, Vanniye Bandara, Aludevi born in Kiuelagedera in Viyaluwa and several other gods in the "Pitisara devalas". Thus it is seen that Esala is the festivals month of the Sinhalese.

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