Yapahuwa: stronghold of resistance

Prof. W. I. SIRIWEERA

Yapahuwa, in the Divisional Secretariat area of Mahawa in the Kurunegala District, is located about 4 kilometres to the North-West of Mahawa urban centre. The region had been a habitation site in proto and early historic eras. The cist burials at Pinvava Galsohon Kanatta, a kilometre away from the town can be dated to the proto-historic era (1,000 B. C-300 BC). Some cave inscriptions at Yapahuwa are dated to the second and first centuries BC in the early historic era which indicate that it was a monastic site supported by surrounding villages.

But Yapahuwa became historically more important amidst foreign invasions in the 13th century. The Mahawamsa states that Kalinga Magha invaded Rajarata (in 1215 AD) and ruled from Polonnaruwa by persecuting Buddhists and destroying Buddhist monuments. It was then that a provincial ruler named Subha established his base at Subhapabbata, Sundaragiri, Yapagala or Yapahuwa to organize garrisons against Magha. Some of the buildings in situ may originate from his times. The place was a stronghold of resistance against Magha even during the reign of Parakaramabahu II (1236-1270) of Dambadeniya.

Royal capital

The son of Parakaramabahu II, Bhuvanekabahu I (1272-1284) made Yapahuwa the royal capital most likely due to fear of further invasions. The duration of this administrative centre was very short but it contains well preserved archaeological ruins much more than at Dambadeniya, Kurunegala, Gampola, Sitavaka or Kotte. Like any other royal city, Yapahuwa consisted of a citadel or inner city, an enclosed outer city and agricultural and habitation sites in the periphery of the outer city.

Yapahuwa, in fact is a less ambitious attempt towards city planning than Sigiriya although elements of the layout indicate a parallel stamp. The walls of the inner city are on the Southern side of the rock, and the rock was naturally protected and inaccessible from Northern, Eastern and Western sides. The archaeological remains indicate that there was a strong brick wall parallel to the stone wall. Perhaps the former was constructed by the local ruler Subha when he made the fortress his residence.

The stone wall is in the shape of a horse shoe. In accordance with physical features of the area the height of the wall varies from place to place and the highest point is about three metres. The entrance to the inner city was from the Western and Eastern sides. There are clear indications that the Western gateway had two watch posts on top of the wall but the vestiges of the Eastern gate do not indicate the existence of watch posts. Perhaps the Eastern gate was rarely used and was mostly closed for security purposes. The total length of the inner city wall is around 440 metres and only three fourths of it has been restored.

The moat adjoining the inner wall had extended to a distance of 330 metres. The breadth of the moat varied from place to place depending on the physiographic features but approximately it was around 14 metres. Presently its depth is about 1.70metres.

None of the buildings in the inner city or the royal precinct can be clearly identified. The main building on the summit of the rock is presumed to be the Temple of the Tooth. S. Paranawitana’s view is that it was the royal palace. Whatever it is, it is reasonable to assume that the royal palace, Temple of the Tooth and related buildings were on the summit and not at the base as some tend to believe. The summit could be reached through a series of granite steps and the walls besides the steps are adorned with sculptures. Some of these sculptures such as the lion figure can be considered masterpieces.

Down below the royal precinct is a foundation of a square building of 24. 6 metres in length and 21. 9 metres in breadth. It is on a raised platform and the entrance to the building is from the Eastern side. There are restored foundations of some other buildings too but these cannot be identified properly. It may be assumed that they were administrative buildings such as the Audience Hall.

The larger outer city was also protected by a wall and a moat. The outer wall is about four metres high and up to a particular height it was built of stones. The upper portion was in bricks. No proper excavations have been conducted in the outer city and therefore even foundations of any structures cannot be seen. It is reasonable to conclude that the elite employed in royal service, rich local and foreign merchants and their families lived in the enclosed outer city. Beyond were agricultural settlements.

Muslim World and China

The territory of the Yapahuwa kingdom had extended to the coastal areas of the West, East and the South but not to Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa or the Northern region. The income of the kingdom came mainly from taxes on agriculture and from foreign trade in which the king also directly participated. Bhuvanekabahu I, in a letter written in Arabic script sent to Mamluk Sultan of Egypt through a mission headed by Alhaj Abu Uthman in 1283 stated that he possessed gems, pearls, cinnamon and elephants and wished to strengthen trade relations with Egypt and that annually he could supply 20 ships made of best timber. By this time Muslim traders had settled in port towns such as Colombo, Beruwela, Bentota, Galle, Weligama and Hambantota. Relations with the Muslim world were particularly strong during this time.

So were relations with China. Large numbers of Chinese coins and ceramics such as bowls, jars and plates found at Yapahuwa are testimony to Sri Lanka-China trade reletions during this era. One thousand three hundred and fifty two Chinese coins deposited in a clay pot was discovered at Yapahuwa in 1949.

During the last year of Bhuvanekabahu I, the Chinese emperor Kublai Khan sent an embassy requesting the Bowl Relic from the king. But the king diplomatically avoided the issue. However, when Bhuvanekabahu I died in 1284 and a period of anarchy prevailed for three years, the most important symbol of the Buddhists, the Tooth Relic was forcibly removed to India by the invaders. It was in fact, placed in the custody of the Pandyan king Kulasekhara. Later, Parakaramabahu III (1287-1293) who ascended the throne at Yapahuwa went to the Pandyan kingdom, befriended Kulasekhara and secured the Tooth Relic and brought it back to Sri Lanka.

Depopulation

Yapahuwa was abandoned after the death of Parakramabahu III. His successor, Bhuvanekabahu II, shifted the capital to Kurunegala due to threats from the Aryacakravarthi of the North and the Pandyas of South India. The region was depopulated.

After nearly four centuries, during the reign of Kirthi Sri Rajasinghe (1747-1781) of Kandy, Yaphuwa summit was converted into a monastic establishment by a Bhikkhu named Nettipolagama.

The vestiges of a Stupa and some other archaeological ruins there can be dated to this era but later Yapahuwa had been abandoned again until the first archaeological commissioner, H. C. P. Bell initiated excavations in 1911- 1912.