Wild Experience with Chaaya

Demi HEWAMANNA

Whenever you make a trip to Yala and return home from the Safari...the ever so famous question anyone would ask is - did you see any Leopards? If you have seen them and that too, on your very first Safari, you are considered to be very lucky. Many people who have gone on Safaris simply to catch a glimpse of the "King of the Jungle of Sri Lanka", have come back with no luck.

I guess I am lucky, as when I went on my first Safari (a school trip), I got the opportunity to see one lazy leopard, snoring away on a rock. On my second trip which was just a few weeks back, I got to see FIVE of them (lucky me!).

This wonderfully wild experience was given to an 'all girls' media tour by John Keells Holdings when they took us for the opening of Chaaya Wild which was earlier known as Yala Village.

Thanks to the great interior designing and architecture of Channa Daswatte, the hotel has been transformed into a modern yet eco-friendly property located in the sanctuary itself.

As the four- legged friends know that the two legged beings are always up to more mischief than them, they had set some guidelines about the resort and their surroundings that were written in wooden tablet - something like the 10 Commandments of the Animal kingdom - given at the entrance to the resort.

Once we entered the resort, we were welcomed by the staff with cool towels, Lotus flower wrapped in betel leaves and fresh juices and soon joined by Chaaya Wild General Manager Teddy Rowland and architect Daswatte. As you enter if you take a look to your left, you would catch a glimpse of the wall adorned with the photos of Leopards taken by Chitral Jayatileke. Why should I hesitate to name the wall "The Great Wall of Leopards?" Every decor in the resort resembles some item of nature.

After lunch (serving Western and Sri Lankan cuisine), and a quick siesta, the time came for the long awaited safari. With our very knowledgeable guide Rohan we took off to the park which is approximately a 10 minute drive from the resort. It was really amazing to see the number of people (local and foreign tourists) who had come for a very 'big' family safari.

As we began our safari - all eyes were basically on the lookout for leopards. But before them, there were several peacocks, wild boars, deer, Sambar deer, buffaloes, a variety of birds and a crocodile (small one) sun bathing.

While going, one of the nature trails volunteers said that mostly leopards are found resting on the trees or rocks, so my eyes were fixed on thick trees and rocks to see if I could get a glimpse of one. I thought the way we travelled we would never get to see one, so after hours of driving, we came to a traffic stop midst the jungle where there was a row of jeeps parked with heads all turned to one direction and cameras on the ready.

This usually means - that there is a leopard somewhere. And yes there was, and it was the start of many more leopards to see.

The first leopard came to surface when he got up to yawn and wow...he was simply amazing. Not bothered at all, he was totally in another world when suddenly another one jumped down from the tree he was hiding from. Immediately both of them disappeared into the bushes, even though some were waiting for them for a long time, the young cubs remained hidden. The second one we saw was a bigger male (probably a dominant one), lazily sleeping on a rock hidden behind the falling branches of a tree not realizing that all eyes and camera lens were focused on him. Lastly, as we made our exit from the park, on another rock, 'Mama Leopard' and a cub were enjoying the peaceful stillness of their territory and were not bothered about anyone looking or taking pictures of them.

Once we returned to the resort, we were just dusty all over. When we headed up to the pool deck, coffee and sweet treats awaited us. And this was something we really needed. After a quick shower and change, we headed to the lounge area, where a projector and seating were set up for the guest speaker and Guest of Honour Andrew Chastney - the man behind many documentaries such as Frozen Planet, Human Planet, Planet Earth, Big Cat Diaries. He is at the moment directing a series of Behind the Scenes short films for Bluray for Disney Feature films. Jonathan Scott who was down here, told Andrew that he must go to Sri Lanka

This was his first trip to Sri Lanka he said, and certainly won't be the last. Andrew was here with his team to film our leopards. No sooner he arrived he was lucky enough to see a mature leopard in his territory and two cubs the next day.

He mentioned that in Kenya one had to wait for weeks to see one. In his film, most of it involves night filming and for that they brought down the best of the best night equipments such as artificial infrared lighting - which won't disturb the creatures in the night and also picking up the heat senses to see what is moving around the bushes under the moon rays. From the film he did Night Stalkers, we got to see how a leopard hunts, hides the food and eats in the night trying not to attract other dominant leopards. Something I was really thrilled to see was the way the female leopard comes rolling on the ground and rubbing herself towards the male to mate. It is said that the leopards mate for two days straight taking a break every 15 minutes.

JKH Assistant Vice President and Head of Eco Tourism and Special Projects Chitral Jayatileke, said that in Block 1 there are about to 60 to 70 leopards and half of them are grown males and females. This is also said to be the highest number in Asia.

There are the cubs who when they are 18 - 19 months go off on their own to make their territory. In the African region, a cat has an area of around 50 square meters to call it his territory but in Sri Lanka the square meter is very much less making it easy for them to survive in a small area and as they are on top of the food chain they rule about everything surrounding them.

All the leopards that Chitral and his team have spotted have names. One name that I do remember well is "Ivan." He got this name as he has only one eye - he lost the other eye as a result of a brawl he had with another leopard. They said just like our finger print, every leopard has a marking on their forehead that helps them know if they go to another territory or if they face a natural death or fight to death so as to keep a tab on them.

Some of the other animals that one gets to see are the Sloth Bears (25 bears so far in Block 1) - who are very visible when the Palu season comes as they go mad over it. There is also the Fishing cat and Ruby spotted cat which we saw jumping from one side of the road to the other side.

Chitral added that very soon they will begin the night safaris with special equipped night vision goggles such as the ones used by Andrew and his team. This trip will also will be done with a lot of supervision within the park and under great precaution. I simply cannot wait for that time.

It's a very smooth drive to Yala and with one stop point for breakfast we got there in six and half hours. Even though the road itself to Chaaya Wild is a bumpaty ride - it is so worth it and that is another story.