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Use of ornaments in Classical:
Bharatha Natyam
Subashini PATHMANATHAN
The use of ornaments is an important and unavoidable factor in
Bharatha Natyam. Traditionally in the Tamil society, country women
parted the hair in the centre in a straight line along with the nose
end. Even today it is a common feature.
The ornament that is worn down the hair parting is called Uchipattam,
with a small pendant dangling on the forehead. The Nethipattam, is an
ornament, which covers both sides of the forehead. It is a pearl and
stone studded chain, which is firmly secured to Uchipattam.
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Ornaments are a vital part of the Bharatha Natyam dancer’s
costume |
Sometimes the Uchipattam is used alone. To the right side of the
Uchipattam, another ornament Suriapirai, is attached. This is the emblem
of Sun. On the left side of the Uchipattam the Chanrapirai, the emblem
of the moon, is attached. The Sun depicts brightness, domination and
light, whilst the Moon depicts calmness.
At the end of the Uchipattam and on the top of the head, the dancer
wears the Rakodi. Traditionally the Rakodi, depicts the head of a
peacock against the background of peacock feathers.
Earlier the entire dance jewelry was made out of pure gold. Today the
headset is made mostly out of brass metal, studded with stones, and
pearls.
This is commonly known as Araku set, (temple jewellery), and the
other head set is known as the stone headset. Mostly the stone headset
is made out of white stones but sometimes it is mixed with white and red
stones.
Another head ornament is Chadanaagam, which depicts the cobra (Aathisedan)
made out of flowers. But today the Chadanaagam is made out of brass or
light brass plated metal, studded with stones and beads.
The Chadanaagam ends with Chada kuncham. It is now mostly made out of
flowers. Earlier it was made out of brass-plated metal hanging with
velvet cloth balls or silk thread.
The ornament which is worn around the neck is called the Maangai
malai necklace. It means Mango necklace because it is made out of mango
shaped stone. Another chain call Kasumalai is also often worn in
Bharatha Natyam alsong with the Maangai malai. Kasumalai means Gold
sovereign malai.
Instead of gold sovereigns brass-made sovereigns are strung together
today. A pearl Malai is also accompanies the Kasumamai. The pearl Malai
in three strands has pendants depicting peacock, or parrot or swan, or
goddess Mahalakshmi attached to it.
Oddiyanam is worn around the waist. This is a narrow belt or broad
belt according to the dancer’s fancy, size and age. A waist chain is
worn below the Oddiyanam.
For the hands and upper arms a pair of Wangi is worn. Beautiful gold
coloured bangles are also worn. The present generation dancers choose
bangles to match with the colour of their costume.
Sometimes the dancers wear bracelets for the wrists instead of
bangles. Pillaku, Nathu and Nose Studs are used as nose ornaments.
Similarly, for the ear Kannasaram, Ear studs and Simiki are used.
All these ornaments are made out of stones, pearls and brass metal.
Normally Ear studs and Simiki are attached to the hair by another
ornament called Kannasaram.
Rings are worn for the fingers, yet experienced dancers do not like
to wear the finger rings because sometimes it is an obstacle for the
dancer, mainly to depict the muthras (hand gestures). Sometimes these
finger rings get struck to the costumes while dancing is in progress.
For the feet the dancers select different coloured jingling bells
according to preference. These jingling bells are in different sizes and
colours. Some jingling bells are gold coloured while others are in
silver colour.
Below the Jingling bells pure silver or silver coated anklets are
used. All these features stress the importance of ornaments in bringing
glamour to present Bharatha Natyam recitals. |
