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Pioneer insights to Sri Pada – Part III

Continued from last week

It is noted that Lawrie also presents some rare accounts of foreign travellers, quoting from various sources. He sates:

In 1347 Ibn Batuta, a Moor, was carried by the south-west monsoon to Ceylon. He was permitted to land at Battala (Putlam).... under the protection of a Tamil king. He made the pilgrimage to the summit of Adam’s Peak accompanied by four jyogees, who visited the footmark every year, “four Brahmans, and ten of the king’s companions, with fifteen attendants, carrying provisions...” In the ascent from Gampola to Adam’s Peak he speaks of the monkeys with beards like men and of the fierce leech which lurks on the trees and damp grass. He describes the trees with leaves that never fall and the red roses of the rhododendrons.

At the foot of the last pinnacle, which crowns the summit of the Peak, he found a minaret named after Alexander the Great; steps hewn out of the rock, and iron pins, to which chains are appended, to assist the pilgrims in their ascent; a well filled with fish; and last of all, on the loftiest point of the mountain, the sacred footprint of the First Man, into the hollow of which the pilgrims drop their offerings of gems and gold. (Emerson Tennent, I,p. 604)

The reader comes to know that there had been a Buddhist monk who had looked after the holy place, living in a small vihara on the summit. This Buddhist monk in the customarily manner had been appointed by the Maha Nayaka Theras, and was allowed to reside from November to May during the season.

The glorious sunrise at the top of the sacred mountain. Picture by Lakshan Maduranga

Lawrie had found an account of the ascent of the peak by one Sir Vivian Majendie, written on January 1, 1896, from where he makes these contracts:

“Then at the top, covering the footprint, is a little temple or vihare, and a priest or two live up here in a small and very dirty hut; and the pilgrims perform their devotions, and take their well-earned rest; and about the shrine they suspend their touching simple little votive offerings - pieces of calico, strings of cotton, flowers, and little worthless ornaments, a few of which the priests allowed me to take away... There is a bell here, and it is usual to toll once or twice, or as often as you have made the ascent.

“The mountain presents another interest, and that is the opportunity which it affords of witnessing the most glorious sunrise that it is possible to conceive, illuminating an enormous tract of country - a radius of some eighty miles, and stretching away in one direction out to sea, and with this sunrise the wonderful and celebrated ‘Shadow of the Peak’.

This is a shadow - due to the rising sun - of the Peak itself, and which lies stretched over the misty land and sea for a great distance. And as the sun rises the shadow seems itself to rise up as it were and approach, and at last it suddenly topples over towards the spectator like a ladder that has been reared beyond the vertical.

sunandamahendra@gmail. Com

Notes from the reign

* King Vimala Dhamma Suriya (1687-1707): “As he believed that a pilgrimage on foot was an act of great merit, he walked to the shrine at Samanakuta, and remained there for seven days, holding a feast of offerings of jewels, pearls, and the like precious things, and also of articles of gold and silver, and of divers cloths and the like things. And he made an end of this great feast by covering with a large silver umbrella the footprint which the great Sage had left on the top of the mountain Samanakuta” (p. 334).

* King Narendra Sinha (1707-39): “The chief of men, moved thereto by faith, went also on two occasions to Samanakuta, and after he had made offerings there acquired merit: (p. 335).

* King Vijaha Sinha (1734-1747): “The lord of the land caused all kinds of feasts, such as the feast of lamps and the like, to be held at the noble footprint of the Supreme Buddha on Samanakuta” (p. 342).

* King Kirti Sri (1747-1778): “Now that wicked king who had become famous as Rajasinha of the city of Sitawaka, and who had committed the crime of killing his father, and who had destroyed the religion of the Conqueror by reason of his ignorance of what was right, appointed heretics, whose false teaching he had embraced, to take the revenues of the shrine of the sacred footprint of Buddha at Samanakuta… (p. 307).

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