Yala a life-giver

Text and pix by Ganga PRADEEPA in Yala

Among the main National Parks in Sri Lanka Yala is the most popular wildlife safari park which is situated in the South-Eastern corner of the island. The park is famous for its high density of leopards, perhaps the highest in the world.

The Yala Group of National Reserves is one contiguous system of Reserves "National Park Blocks 1, 2,3, 4 and 5 Yala National Park and a strict National Reserve as well as the adjoining Kataragama, Katagamuwa and Kudimbigala Sanctuaries.

Temperate

Yala National Park is geographically located in Sri Lanka at latitude 06°16' - 06°42' North and longitude 81°15' - 81°42' East.

Climate

Being located in one of the arid regions of Sri Lanka, the climate of National Park is usually hot and dry. The area receives its annual rainfall during the north east monsoon from November to January and unpredictable inter-monsoonal rains in March, April and September. February is a dry month, with the dry season proper commencing in June and lasting until September and sometimes until mid October.

Location

The Park can be visited via the town of Tissamaharama in the Hambantota District of the Southern Province. Park area is belonging to two provinces namely South and Uva Provinces. The total area of the park (which is of 5 blocks) is 97,881 ha but only Block I and Block II are open for visitors.

Accommodation

There are eight Park bungalows all of which are within Yala Block I. Accommodation is available for 8-10 people in each bungalow on the basis of prior reservations with the Department of Wildlife Conservation. Apart from resident visitors occupying the bungalows, a large number of day visitors enter the Park.

Physical features

Most of the area is underlain by Vijayan rocks formed over 600 million years ago. They are made up of hornblende and granite gneisses. Pleistocene and Holocene alluvial and Aeolian deposits cover the Vijayan series near the Menik ganga and along most of the coastline.

According to former Warden, Yala National Park, Childers Jayawardhana, "The breached and denuded earth bunds of several irrigation tanks are still visible, together with natural water holes and tanks improved to hold water. These sources of water are a link in the survival of the wildlife found within the area".

Established

The park was initially established in 1938 only with block I and other blocks were included later.

Forest area

Forest area is dominated by Palu (Manilkara hexandra), Weera (Drypetes sepiaria), Malitthan (Salvadora persica), Ehala (Cassia fistula), Divul (Limonia acidissima) and Kohomba (Azadirachta indica). Thorny scrub land is dominated by Eraminia (Ziziphus.sp) and Andara (Dichrostachys cinerea). Sonneratia, Acanthus, Rhizopora and Lumnitzera species dominate the mangrove vegetation.

Animals

All the big game mammals of the country are found within the park. Elephant, Leopard, sloth bear, Spotted Dear, Wild Boar. Apart from them small mammals such as Black napped hare, Grey, Ruddy and Striped necked mongoose, Grey Langur and porcupine are common small mammals. Sri Lanka is known for the highest leopard density in the world and Yala, the most eco-friendly, attracts more tourists than any other park for this reason. Once you catch sight of a male leopard crossing the road at dusk to stalk a Sambur deer, phantom-like behind a bush you know this is real. The bird population is profuse, stunning and in November-January, the fantail peacocks everywhere is unforgettable.

Birds

Park is also famous for its abundant bird life. Over140 species have recorded so far within the park. Changeable Hawk Eagle, Crested serpent Eagle, Malabar pied Hornbill, Jungle fowl, painted Stork, White Ibis and Black necked Stork are commonly seen. The bird population is profuse, stunning and in November-January, the fantail peacocks everywhere is unforgettable.

How to get there

Yala National Park is 309 km south of Colombo on the southeast of the island. You can reach yala from South coast via Tangalla and Hambantota or via Udawalawe from Ratnapura, Haputale or via Bandarawela, Tanamalwila from Nuwaraeliya. Yala is close to Udawalawe National Park.

Jeeps can often be hired from Independent Safari Jeep Association. The guides are employed by the conservation and wildlife societies and must accompany all visitors to the park.

Uniqueness

The uniqueness of the park is the sheer diversity of the habitat: dense jungles suddenly gives way to lagoons and open plain areas and the park has a simply beautiful sea front.

Best months to visit

The best months to visit the park are between January and May, when the vegetation is at its most lush. The dry season, from June to October, offers a different view of the scenery as the waterholes dry and the land takes on a parched and dry appearance.

As a result of the stunning natural beauty and plentiful wildlife, Yala gets quite busy during the peak months and you will likely share your viewing time with many other jeeps.

Kulu Safaris

Kulu Safaris operate their luxury camping service in Yala, which is undoubtedly the best way to experience the park.

You will be on a safari drive long before and after all the other jeeps have left, giving you the massive park to yourself.

*****************

[Access to the park ]

Access to Block 1

Ruhuna Yala National Park Block 1 on the southeast coast of Sri Lanka is the Island's most visited wildlife reserve of the island. Sri Lanka having been ranked 21st among the large bio-diversity hot spots in the world, eco-tourism in the island has pushed Ruhuna Yala Park to forefront of numerous wildlife reserves of the island.

Access to the park (Block 1)

The park is easily accessible from the coastal highway Colombo - Bentota - Unawatuna - Galle - Tissamaharama. The main gate is at Palatupana, 20 km from Tissamaharama. The other gate is on the Kataragama - Situlpahuwa road.

Terrain of the block 1 of park

The landscape of block 1 runs over a spectrum of terrain: dense jungle, scrub jungle, riverine woodland, rock pools, streams, freshwater lakes & a long coastline which curves around Sri Lanka's southeast coast. Pristine natural beaches & high sand dunes of the coast and add a novel dimension to the considerable wildlife nurtured by the range of habitats.

Panaromic views from vantage points

The enormous rocky outcrops, a distinctive feature in the scrub land, provide vantage points to enjoy the beautiful dry-zone landscape of the park. Then again to the south are dunes close to the coast. Of all the vantage points set up by rocky outcrops, Situlpahuwa monastic settlement at Yala's northern end dish out the finest view.

Season for Elephants

The best time to see elephants is during the January to May dry season, when they congregate around the park's lagoons.

Leopards

With over 35 leopards seen in Block 1, Yala West has probably one of the world's densest leopard populations. Panthera pardus kotiya, is a distinct subspecies of its Indian cousins, the largest in Asia. The best time to see leopard is February to July, when the water level of the park is low. Vepandeniya is considered a favourite spot. However we need to be accompanied by a resident naturalist.

Mammals

Among the 32 species of mammals are Sambar deer, spotted deer, muse deer, barking deer, wild boar, wild buffaloes, pangolins, porcupines, stripe-necked & ruddy mongooses, rabbits, wild cats, jackals macaque, languor monkeys, toque monkeys and many more...

Sloth bears

Sloth bears are occasionally spotted, particularly in June, when they feed on local fruit.

Crocodiles

There are also plentiful crocodiles marsh as well as estuarine.

Bird life

There are about 130 species overall. These birds include white-winged black terns, curlews, pintails, barbets, hoopers, Malabar pied hornbills, orioles, Ceylon shamas and paradise flycatchers, though pea and jungle fowl are the most frequently seen.

Aquatic birds

The expanses of wetlands attract serpent - eagle, eastern grey heron, painted stork. White-fowl arrive each winter to augment the resident population. Among the common aquatic birds are various storks, egrets, pelicans, sandpipers, herons, ibises, kingfishers & the magnificent Indian darter. With a little bit of luck, you may also spot the rare black-necked stork near Buttawa on the coast. GP

*****************

History of Yala National Park

Early History

According to the book of "Yala National Park" by Fauna International Trust The earliest epigraphy "Brahmi" inscriptions discovered in Sri Lanka and in this region date back to the 2nd century B.C. Prior to this the Indo-Aryan settlers from Northern India as represented, in the legend of Vijaya, were well established and in full control of the area. Edifices of the earliest Buddhist cave monastery type began to be constructed wherever there was human habitation and in suitable rock outcrops, of which there are many in the area. There are to this day innumerable and very interesting remains of cave dwellings from the pre-Christian era.

This region was part of the Rohana (Ruhuna) Kingdom, having an advanced civilization as evinced by remains of dagabas and ancient artificial reservoirs (tanks), built by clever hydrological engineers, to irrigate large extents of cultivable land.

After the 10th century, historical evidence draws attention to the absence of inscriptions later than the 10th century A.D. Architectural and sculptural remains of the medieval period are absent. It would appear to be a justifiable inference that some sudden de-population of the region occurred. The ancient chronicles supply no information whatsoever and the jungle tide spread covering the past with a mantle of secondary forest. These have matured to the climax stands seen in Yala today.

The Modern Era

At the turn of the century Yala Block I was declared a Game Sanctuary. A small area west of the Sanctuary was set aside in which resident sportsman might shoot. The main force behind this decision was the Game Protection Society founded in 1894 by the plantation owners, executives of firms, sportsmen and amateur naturalists favouring the conservation of wildlife. Records denote that the first Game Ranger of the Sanctuary was H.H. Engelbrecht, an Afrikaaner and a Boer prisoner of war who was not returned to South Africa on account of his refusal to swear allegiance to the British monarchy. After his release Engelbrecht came to the nearby coastal town of Hambantota. Being on his own on foreign soil, he found life hard. The Government Agent of the district however, took pity on Engelbrecht and made him the custodian of the Game Sanctuary around 1908. With his experience of wildlife on the veldt, the post suited him admirably. He administered the region fearlessly and with courage, using his whip to punish any miscreants. Many are the tales of his daring and prowess with the gun. However, his German ancestry proved to be his undoing.

He was falsely accused during the First World War (1914-1918), of supplying meat to a German warship, the "Emden", and was taken into custody. After the war, he was released and once again returned to Hambantota where he died in poverty. Long after his death, it was proved that he was innocent of the accusation. GP