The Kathmandu extravaganza

Lionel WIJESIRI

Kumari is prepared to be taken to the chariot

Once a year in Nepal, both Hindus and Buddhists set aside their religious differences to celebrate the joyous festival of Indra Jatra. Dedicated to the Lord Indra, this festival is one of dancing, feasting and rejoicing. In Nepal both Hindus and Buddhists abound and each religious group generally has their own particular festivals which they adhere to. However, during the celebration held to honour the rain god, Lord Indra, both groups enjoy the many delights of life.

This year the festival was held from September 12 to 19 in Kathmandu.

Kathmandu, the Capital City of Nepal, has a very ancient history of its origin. The history of Kathmandu dates back to 726 AD with king Gunkamadev who established and named the city Kaasth Mandap by coining two words 'Kaastha' and 'Mandap''. The term 'Kaastha' meant 'wood' and Mandap 'beautiful shade'. At that time the city was so full of wooden buildings and temples that it looked like it had a 'beautiful wooden cover'. After many centuries the name changed and the new word Kathmandu became the name by which the city was known in the local language.

Origin of festival

Girls from Sakya clan performing traditional flute music

Bhairav which is uncovered only when the festival is on

Palace of the the Living goddess - Kumari

The origin of this festival is based on a story regarding Indra Jatra's capture as a child when he has come down to Earth and was picking a particular flower for his mother who wanted it to be used in a special celebration. Unfortunately, during the act of picking the flower, Indra Jatra was caught, accused of stealing and imprisoned. The situation made it necessary for his mother to request Indra Jatra's captors for her son's release. The captors were very happy to release Indra Jatra once his mother had revealed his identity. As a gesture of gratitude for Indra Jatra's release, his mother made a commitment to the Nepalese to arrange for regular rains throughout the year.

Feast

The festival of Indra Jatra continues for eight days with much rejoicing, singing, dancing and feasting. People from all over Nepal gather at the Hanuman Dhoka in Kathmandu. (Hanuman Dhoka is the former Royal Palace of the Malla kings. It has ten courtyards. King Pratap Malla enlarged the original building in the 17th century, adding many more temples. The palace was last lived in by the royal family until 1886).

On the first day, a long wooden pole is erected in front of the ancient Royal Palace at Hanuman Dhoka, as a symbol to make peace with Lord Indra. Classical dancers also assemble at the spot, wearing different kinds of traditional masks and costumes and begin dancing around the courtyards.

On the third day of the festival, the Living Goddess in all her jeweled splendour travels through the older part of Kathmandu city in a three tiered chariot accompanied by Ganesh and Bhairav. This event continues for three days. It is really a grand gala in which people in their thousands throng in and around the Kathmandu Durbar Square to pay their homage to the Living Goddess. According to Hindu beliefs Ganesha is the son of Shiva and Parvati, and Bhairav is another form of Lord Shiva himself.

The festival's many interesting dances, including the Procession of Living Goddess-Mahakali, Mahalaxmi and Dasha Avatara masked dances are staged in Kathmandu Durbar Square. The excitement of the festival of Indra Jatra comes to an end on the last evening of the festival when the long wooden pole erected on the first day is lowered with religious ceremonies.

Living Goddess

The selection of the Living Goddess is a highly elaborate tantric ritual. The preliminary test is concerned with 32 attributes of perfection, including the colour of her eyes, the shape of her teeth and the sound of her voice. Her horoscope must also be appropriate.

The 4 to 7 year girls from the Sakya community are chosen and made to confront a goddess in the darkened room. The sight of the Buffalo heads scattered around, the demon-like masked dancers, the terrifying noises they encounter scare some of these innocent girls.

The real goddess is unlikely to be frightened, so the one who is calm and collected throughout the tests is the only girl who is entitled to sit on the pedestal for worship as the Living Goddess. Then as a final test similar to that of the Dalai Lama, the Kumari then chooses items of clothing and decoration worn by her predecessor.

The god-house Kumari Ghar is a store-house of magnificent intricate carvings where the Living Goddess performs her daily rituals.

During her tenure in the god-house, the Government Trust Fund bears her entire expenses including that of her caretakers. Under normal circumstances, her days in the god-house come to an end with her first menstruation, but if she turns out to be unlucky, as they say, even a minor scratch on her body that bleeds can make her invalid for worship. She then changes back to the status of normal mortal and the search of a new Kumari begins.

During Indra Jatra, there are a variety of performances including the dances of Sawa Bhakku Bhairav from Halchowk, Lakhes from Majipat, Devi Nach and Yeravat hathi (Pulukisi) from Naradevi, Mahakali and Kathi Maka Nach from Bhaktapur. All the dances take place around Hanuman Dhoka area. The Dasavatar or the ten incarnations of Lord Vishnu is also staged every night.

Kumari Puja

There are several legends circulating about how the current sect of the Kumari began. Most of the legends, however, lead back to King Jayaprakash Malla, the last Nepalese king of the Malla Dynasty (12th-17th century CE). According to the popular legend, a red serpent approached the king's chambers late one night as he played tripasa, a dice game, with the goddess Taleju.

Thereafter the goddess came along every night to play the game, but only in a condition that the king would tell none about her.

The king's wife had suspicions and one day followed him. That night, the king's wife and the Teleju saw each other. The goddess got angry and told the king that if he ever wanted to see her again and protect the country she would take the incarnation in a little girl of sakya community. Hoping to make amends with his patroness, King Jayaprakash Malla left the palace in search of the young girl who was possessed by Taleju's spirit.

A variation of this and other legends names King Gunkam Dev, a 12th century ancestor of King Jayaprakash Malla as the main character rather than Jayaprakash Malla.

A third variation of the legend says that during the reign of King Jayaprakash Malla, a young girl was banished from the city because it was feared that she was possessed by the goddess Durga.

When the queen learned of the young girl's fate, she became enraged and insisted that the king fetch the girl and appoint her as the living incarnation of Durga.

Since Indra Jatra is a festival of classical dances, spectators can enjoy a huge display of colour, movement and classical music exclusive to Nepalese culture.

Even if the myths and tales wrapped up in the eight-day celebration are not acceptable to you, the beautiful displays in and around Durbar Square are entrancing enough for you visit Kathmandu in September next year.