Holy Tour to Buddha’s Birthplace

For the devoted and dedicated pilgrims to Buddhist India, the prime sacred site is the birth-place of the supremely enlightened Buddha. Although we tend to describe this holy place as the site where the Buddha was born, it is strictly the place where prince Siddhartha was born, since he was at birth, only a royal prince.

Sir Edwin Arnold in his tremendous Epic Poem “Light of Asia,” celebrates the sacred birth this way:

In this wise was the
holy Buddha born.
Queen Mahamaya
stood at noon,
her days fulfilled...
So brought
she forth her child.
Pangless -
he having on his
perfect form
The marks thirty and two,
of blessed Birth.

The modern day pilgrim, up at dawn on an early December day, visits the sacred site of ancient Kapilavastu. A thick mist shrouds the landscape. The undulating green plain, studded with a series of major and minor mounds, spreads to the far horizon.

The visitor to the Holy Site, standing by the side of the remains of what was once the Nigrodha Monastery, contemplates the scene. A sharp chill, issuing form the foothills of the Himalayas, elicits a slight shiver.

Suddenly the time shifts.

It is 2631 years ago from our day. The royal palace of king Suddhodana is astir and agog with excitement. Servant-maids are busy fetching food and drink. King Suddhodana is seated on his throne.

His consort Queen Mahamaya is seated next to him, though slightly behind. Five Brahmin sages are seated in front of the king. His Majesty addresses them: “Learned teachers, I summoned you to my palace to request you to interpret a dream that my consort, Queen Mahamaya, dreamt last night. In her dream, the four guardian deities of the world took her to the Himalayas along with the bed in which she was sleeping.

The queens of those deities bathed her in Anavatapta Lake. Next, they took the Queen into a golden cave in a silver mountain. They made her sleep in the golden cave. While she was asleep a white elephant-calf, bearing a white lotus in its trunk, went round her three times and entered her womb.”

The learned Brahmins were delighted. Their spokesperson interpreted the dream this way: “Sire, this dream is absolutely auspicious. Queen Mahamaya has conceived a child who will eventually be a conqueror of the Three Worlds.” Overjoyed, the king made all arrangements to provide the fullest protection to the queen.

King Suddhodana was the ruler of the Sakyans. Queen Mahamaya belonged to the Koliya Dynasty. Their main city was Devadaha. Her father was King Anjana. It was the custom of the Sakyas and the Koliyas for a wife to go to her parents’ home for the birth of her first child.

Following the accepted tradition, king Suddhodana arranged for Queen Mahamaya to travel to her parents’ home in Devadaha, when the birth of the child was due. Queen Mahamaya was conducted in a splendid procession to Devadaha.

Her attendants and the retinue were there for her protection. On her way to Devadaha, she sensed the oncoming labour pains. Her retinue took her along to the Lumbini Park for the impending child-birth. The pleasure park of Lumbini is reputed for its Sala groves.

Queen Mahamaya gave birth to the child under a Sala tree, cared for by the ladies in her retinue. Tradition has it that the infant prince took seven steps towards the north, immediately after he was born. He uttered a joyous cry:

Aggohamasmi Lokassa
Jetthohamasmi Lokassa
Setthohamasmi Lokassa
Ayam Antima jati
Natthi dani punabbhavo.

(I am the greatest in the world! I am the highest in the world! I am the noblest in the world! T his is my last birth. From here, there is no rebirth for me!)

His exclamation may have been a foretaste of the transformation he would bring about later, as mankind’s most supreme communicator. The birth of the infant prince took place on the Full-moon day of Vesak.

Today, the pleasure park at Lumbini is situated in Nepal, about 20 km from India-Nepal border. Visas are issued at the border to enter Nepal. There is constantly a considerable crowding of vehicles at the border, as the in and out traffic has to be checked at the border. Cycle-rickshaws are available from the main road to the entrance of Lumbini Park.

An Asoka Pillar marks the spot where the infant prince was born. In this Pillar edict set up in 249 B.C. Emperor Asoka proclaimed that since the Buddha was born here, the village of Lumbini was exempted from tax-payment. Even for the land-products, those in Lumbini had to pay only one-eighth the normal revenue.

In the 1950’s and 1960’s the UN paid special attention to the restoration and protection of this Site. Archaeologists have revealed the original spot where the infant prince was born.

The masonry from the ancient 3rd Century B.C. layers can be seen at the new temple that has been built around it. An ancient piece of sculpture depicting Queen Mahamaya and the infant prince is displayed inside the new building. The pond which was used by Queen Mahamaya is a major attraction at this Site.

The perimeters of the Pleasure Park at Lumbini have been indicated by the archaeological survey. All buildings, stupas and monasteries have to be constructed outside the marked perimeters.

The Sakyan prince, born in Lumbini on that day, brought great joy to King Suddhodana. But the pleasure was marred by the passing away of Queen Mahamaya, just seven days after the birth of her son. Since then, the prince was nursed by his step-mother Prajapati Gotami.

On hearing the news of the birth of the prince, Sage Asita visited the royal palace. King of Suddhodana presented his new-born son to the sage for his blessings. The infant’s feet turned and came to rest on the sage’s head. The sage, after a brief moment of reflection, smiled and immediately after, he cried.

The sage explained the significance of these contradictory expressions: “I smiled because this infant prince will become the Supremely Englihtened Buddha. I carried because I will not be alive to benefit from his words of transcendental wisdom.” The sage worshipped the infant in adoration. So did his royal father.

Then came the naming-day. Eight learned Brahmins assembled in the palace and examined the infant’s physical characteristics. At the end, seven of the learned men were of the view that the infant will one day be either a Chakravartin (Universal Monarch), or a Supremely Enlightened Buddha.

To indicate the alternate possibilities each of those 7 Brahmins raised two fingers. But, the youngest of them all, Kondanna, did not have any hesitation. In his firm conviction, he raised but one finger, and asserted that the infant will invariably be Buddha.

Perplexed, the king determined to do everything in his power to keep the infant bound to a householder’s life. The royal father’s vision was to see that the Prince grew up to be a Universal Monarch.

Named “Siddhartha” (Fulfilled Wishes) Gotama (the Clan-name) the infant prince was now ready for his training. The king appointed Sage Viswamita as Prince Siddhartha’s instructor.

Prince Siddhartha, astonished his royal father at the sacred ploughing ceremony. The little prince was at the venue under the care of his nurses. When the nurses stole away for a moment, leaving the infant alone, to catch a glimpse of the festivities, the prince sat cross-legged on his bed and entered into a state of trance.

The nurses, returning, were amazed at what they saw. The king was promptly informed. Seeing the miracle of his infant in a trance, he worshipped him. This was the second time he adored his son that way.

Prince Siddhartha proved a prodigy in his education. His knowledge was super-normal and his skills super-human. Quite early and quite easily, Prince Siddhartha mastered the arts and crafts and the mandatory martial efficiencies.

But, from childhood on, his heart was compassionate towards all sentient beings. An illustrative episode is recorded in “Lahithavistara”. Prince Siddhartha was out trekking through the royal garden with his cousin Devadatta.

Suddenly, they witnessed a flock of wild swans in graceful flight. Devadatta aimed an arrow at the flock. Struck by the barb, a swan fell to the ground, its free flight brought to a sudden end. Prince Siddhartha picked up the wounded bird, applied herbal medicines to its wound and nursed it back to life.

Devadatta, who shot the bird, claimed it. But Prince Siddartha said: “If the bird died when you shot it, you would have a right to claim it. But, now it belongs to me as I healed it and gave it life.” They decided to settle the matter by consulting the wise men. They decided that since the bird lives, it belongs to Prince Siddhartha who gave it life.

The royal father had misgivings. If Prince Siddhartha chose the path to Enlightenment, the king’s dream of making him a Universal Monarch, will not be actualized. He made an effort to confine the young prince within worldly life, amassing pressures to allure him. He built three palaces, Subha, Ramya and Suramya, for the young prince, one each for the three seasons - winter, spring and summer.

Later in life, the Enlightened Buddha recalled the luxuries lavished upon him by his fond father. Angutara Nikaya records His memories in this manner:

“I was delicate, excessively delicate. In my father’s palace, 3 lotus ponds had been made specifically for me - blue lotuses blossomed in one, red in another, and white in the third. I used no sandalwood that was not of Kasi. My turban, tunic, dress and cloak were all from Kasi. Night and day, a white parasol was held over me so that I might not be touched by heat or cold, dust, leaves or dew.

“There were three palaces built for me - one for the cold season, one for the hot season, and one for the rainy season. During the four rainy months, I lived in the palace for the rainy season, without ever coming down from it, entertained all the while by female musicians.

“In the houses of others, food from the husks of rice, together with sour gruel, is giving to the slaves and workmen. Even so, in my father’s palace, food with rice and meat was given to the slaves and workmen.”

The modern pilgrim looks around in the hushed silence. There are no traces of the three palaces. There is not even a vestigial remnant of the ponds and the Royal Garden.

The State archaeological authority is engaged in the methodical excavation of the site. The location where Prince Siddhartha grew up into a youth has not yet been fully explored, although segments of some buildings have been exposed.

Prince Siddhartha accepted his father’s request to select a bride at a beauty pageant arranged for him. The plan was for the prince to present gifts to the beauties, awarding the highest prize to the most beautiful of them all. When Princess Yasodhara approached Prince Siddhartha the prince’s heart fluttered.

He fell in love with her at first sight, prompted largely by the intimacy that existed in numerous past births during their samsara voyages. But the father of the princess, King Suppabuddha, would not agree to their marriage unless the prince won her through a display of skills.

There were many suitors who wished to have her hand. King Suddhodana was dismayed lest his son would be too delicate for such a contest. But Prince Siddhartha assured him that one the 7th day from now, he will display his skills. On the appointed day, Prince Siddhartha blossomed forth as the most skilful among the contestants.

The wedding ceremony of Prince Siddhartha and Princess Yasodhara - both of them 16 - took place amidst high grandeur and unparalleled splendour. King Suddhodana built a palace for them, intending to make it an exclusive pleasure-world of their own, unperturbed by the intrusions from the world outside.

But, from time to time, his thoughts were troubled about what lay beyond the heavily guarded gates of his palace. Even when he went out occasionally to see the human settlements beyond the walls, the people had been ordered to see that nothing that the Prince will meet, should tend to trouble him.

In spite of the ultra-protection imposed by his father the king, one one occasion when he was out in his chariot with Channa the charioteer, a decrepit old man, shrivelled with age, stepped into his view. Channa explained that he was an old man, in the grip of years.

On a second occasion he saw a sick man, wailing in pain. Channa told him that this was in the nature of things. Seeing a dead body, the prince learnt that this was the end that comes to all.

He had a fourth vision. While touring the city he noted an individual clad differently from all the other persons. This was an ascetic, Channa explained.

“He has given up worldly life and is on a quest for Truth”. The ascetic’ ways appealed to prince Siddhartha, and the expression, “Quest for Truth”, echoed in the inner recesses of his being endlessly. Prince Siddhartha’s mind was fully pre-occupied with the need to seek the Truth, and to deliver mankind from the suffering samsara imposes upon him.

Once, when he was being driven home in his gaily decked chariot from the Pleasure Garden, a comely young Sakya Princess - Kisa Gotami - observed him from the window of her house. In her joy at seeing the serenity of the prince’s person, she uttered these lines:

“Nibbuta nuna sa mata
Nibbata nuna so pita
Nibbuta nuna sa nari
Yassayam idiso pati.”

(Serene is the mother of this kind of person. Serene is the father of this kind of person. Serene is the wife who has such a person as husband.)

While he was at the Pleasure Garden, one day, he received a message from the palace that his wife, Princess Yasodhara, had given birth to a son. He observed:

“Rahulo jato; bandhanam jato.”
(A shackle is born. A bondage has arisen.)

On hearing this, king Suddhodana though that Prince Siddhartha has suggested that his son be called Rahula (shackle).

On the night of the birth of his son, Prince Siddhartha resolved to leave lay life. He was quite clear in his mind that the realization of Truth was his sole mission. He was perfectly aware that the end-result of his achievement will be the total liberation of the whole of mankind, along with his own kith and kin - including his new-born son Rahula.

As the modern pilgrim stands among the ruins of Kapilavastu he cannot help but wonder about the days of King Suddhodana, Yasodhara and prince Siddhartha. Their palaces are gone, reduced by time to mounds and ruins.

That teeming settlement of Kapilavastu is hushed and there is not even a trace of the roads along which Channa drove Prince Siddhartha in his gaily decked chariots. Young Princess Kisa Gotami’s song, at the sight of Prince Siddhartha, has been muted into a mere historical note for more than 2,000 years. But, the eternal fruits of Prince Siddhartha’s Renunciation continue to liberate man, through their timeless impact.

Compiled by Kalakeerthi Edwin Ariyadasa