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| Wednesday, 24 December 2003 |
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Role of gems in Myanmar culture by Rohan Jayetilleke In the West it was the home silvers the prized possession of women, the silver cutlery, the family heirloom. In India, it was the gold Thali the necklace that adorns a married woman, the symbol of a successful married life. In ancient times it was the silver, the most precious for seven pieces of it Jesus was betrayed by Judas. The metal gold entered their vocabulary in currency only after western powers robbed the gold of Asia (Myanmar) and Africa with superior fire power and inhuman intrigue. Since time immemorial, in Myanmar gems and jewellery hypomotized both sexes and stirred their longings to possess them. The gems were concealed in the bowels of the Mother Earth and yielded them most reluctantly for those trying to extricate them by hit and miss manoeuvres. However, Nature was no match for man's ingenuity. Digging the earth, and pan them in running waters was the technique to locate these priceless objects. In the early stages the gem and jade- earning veins were nearer the surface of the earth. The gems and jade are non-renewable treasures of mother Earth like fossil oils. With the urge to possess them expensive and intensive exploitations were made to locate these treasures. It was a Herculean task.
Thus assistance of advanced technology had to be resorted to, with instruments that measure density, elasticity, magnetic susceptibility, electro-properties etc., to trace the gem deposits and veins. The demand for precious gems and jewellery always is in the geometrical proportion, for their scintillating colours and always geared to fill some ineffable aesthetic needs in Sri Lanka. Caste system In ancient times the community at large was entrenched in a stringent caste system, adoring oneself with gems and jewellery. It was the preserve of the royalty and the aristocracy. Although India too had a four tiered caste segregation (chaturvarna - Raja, bamunu, vaisya and sudra), there was no differentiation as regards adoring oneself with gold ornaments. The Hindus Thali (wedding necklace) still continuing is a manifestation of the equality enjoyed by one and all as regards wearing of jewellery. There is a Myanmar saying: "Jewellery and gems are for adornment when affluent, but for food when in financial straits'. It was consequently a custom and convention for a Myanmar family to keep savings in the form of jewellery. Even today it is known as 'inner property', namely movable private property as opposed to other immovable property such as real estate. The daughters of the family inherit the 'inner property' as an heirloom with the eldest getting the best. Gems are also valued in Myanmar for certain powers attributed to them. In the western countries it is birth stones. In Myanmar there are nine noble gems, each with a certain special quality such as: Ruby for power and glory; The Diamond for honour and prestige; The Emerald for peace and tranquillity; The Sapphire for loving kindness; The Cats Eye for perfection; The Garnet for strength; The Topaz for health; The Coral for high rank and position and the Pearl for grace. Rings made up of the 'Nine Noble Gems are mostly men's favourites. Some Myanmar women have them made into lockets for chains or buttons for their traditional jackets. These Nine Gems are set in a specific order forming a flower - like circle with the ruby in the middle. The placements of the outer circle of gems represent the eight directions of the compass and the ruby in the centre occupies the position of the ninth planet (the moon's descending mode). The precious gems of Myanmar like rubies, sapphires, spinels, topaz, garnet and so on are mostly mined in Mogok and Mongshu. The cool green jade, a famous precious stone in Myanmar comes from Hparkhant in the Kachin State and the lustrous gold and silver hued pearls from Myanmar's littoral in Taninthary Division. Human error The raw gems require deft cutting and polishing tolerating no human error and lapidaries are instrumental directly in the gem and jewellery business. Even though the gems are of inestimable value they require a setting in gold, platinum or silver. The goldsmiths and silversmiths are the final master craftsmen in the trade, as the ornament should enhance the elegance and the beauty of the wearer. Pearls could be strung together to form a necklace but, needs the expertise of the craftsmen to string them in a certain order. In order to make an eye-catching ornament pearls have to be set in a certain symmetry in some precious metal to make rings, bracelets, earrings and brooches. Similarly jade too could be bored and strung into a bead necklace. All other gems including diamonds have to be embedded in silver, gold or platinum, to enhance the value or to be value added and beauty-added to the wearer. In the execution of these delicate tasks the craftsmen use manual tools and only very few utilize machines. Exception Myanmar women love jewellery. Without an exception from a daily labourers better half to others. They save money over the years to make a pair of earrings. The wealthy go for gold rings, earrings, bracelets, bangles and brooches in-set with diamonds, rubies, sapphires jade and pearls. There are no psychopaths in Myanmar snatching the jewellery of women. They are respected, as one's mother. The modern trend of costume jewellery is not in vogue in Myanmar. |
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