Kirimitiya - Walking in the valley of clouds

Waking at dawn to see the clouds ripping across the valley rising up like a giant white theatrical curtain to reveal Kirimitiya and the sea of temples that pop up one by one as the sun flickers light across akin to a painter splashing paint across a canvas. Below the bungalow I am staying in, I discover from the old retainer that you can take the rough grass track down to a historic shrine.

The local community believes that a god, Patinideiyo, exists here and Siva says, “The mangoes from the tree beside the kovil are very tasty as a result”, suggesting that there is a connection. Intrigued to see if she was right and being mango season I thought it was the perfect excuse for a walk and to go and collect a few of these exotic temple treats for breakfast.

Walking through a Monet painting

The path was narrow at times and between turns colourful flowers gave me the feeling of walking through a Monet painting. Finally I reached the low-ceilinged, mud-walled temple which had strings of mango leaves hanging from the sides, left over from a recent festival. You enter through a small blue and red striped door with a trident painted on it, and then proceed through an entrance room guarded by two figures, who are watchmen to the gods’ family.

A cool breeze travels through the window latticing as you come into the inner sanctuary. The central rock with fabric tied around it is the terrestrial representation of the god and there are dried flowers and a shell before it. Siva reveals its extraordinary quality: “The stone has grown since I was small.” The bright yellow flowers that are pinned to the walls and the stick, grown thick with sari materials tied around when a wish has been made, create fascination for the eyes.

Guided by Siva’s sprightly young nephew, Damita, you will pass through the village, with houses traditionally built between large granite boulders and follow the grassy track that carves around the hillside. Approaching the large bend that secures that Punchiwatta, the next village is hidden from view and you will wonder at the shimmering pine forests on the hills opposite.

Feeling the heat at the soles

Damita may excitedly point to a lichen-covered outcrop with a metal trident beside it on top of a huge boulder. Slip off your shoes and feel the hot rock on the soles of your feet. Brushing some leaves off the platform on which the rock sits, Damita will explain that it is devoted to the Marasam god. Another fascinating insight into the local culture and confirmation is that this personal and off-the-beaten-track walk will bring you close to the local people and traditions such as carving snakes in their trees to protect them from the evil eye.

After eating a few mangos I went down to the lake at the end of the drive on the other side of the valley. On the way, I spotted rare butterflies in the grassy banks, and even the brown kirimetiya insect. Locals don’t recommend taking a dip, but you can attempt at your own risk. Hiking up the pathway is also fun cutting through the grassy hill behind the house. The former tea area is now covered with wonderfully scented eucalyptus and pine forest. Enjoy clambering over boulders and crossing streams.

At the end of the day head to the ballroom rock close to Bowlana house. This is an excellent spot to sit and admire the sunset or watch black eagles soaring around the valley. Whistle to the brahminy kites and they may respond and watch the valley vanish once again under a curtain of darkness, as one star after another pops out to light your way back to the bungalow for a hearty dish of red rice and curry.