Sri Pada, the Blessed Land

T V Pereira

The annual Sri Pada (Adam's Peak) pilgrimage season began on Unduwap Poya day in December and will continue until May with thousands of pilgrims making the trek along the path of this majestic mountain to its summit to pay homage to the Buddha and God Saman, the hereditary deity of the region, as has been the ritual stretching back for centuries.

The 7360 feet high conical mountain which offers an un-obstructed view over land and sea is located in the southern reaches of the central highlands in the Sabaragamuwa Province 40 kms North East of the Ratnapura town in the mountain region of a wildlife reserve where all 33 known species of birds endemic to Sri Lanka are found.

With a history steeped in myth and legend, Sri Pada which for centuries had been a landmark for navigators to get a bearing and be guided to the island to trade in spices, ivory and gems, is a holy site for Buddhists, Hindus, Islamists and Christians alike who stake claim to the famous footprint on the top. Buddhists claim that the footprint is that of the Buddha's who on His third and final visit to Sri Lanka placed the imprint on the mountain top which He visited on the invitation of God Saman.

Hindus claim that the impression was made by God Shiva while Muslims connect it with Adam who they say stood thereon one foot in expiation of the sin he committed in the Garden of Eden, and Christians believe it to be that of St Thomas', an apostle of India.

God Saman's abode

There is reference to the mountain in the great chronicle, the Mahawansa as 'Samanta Koota' meaning God Saman's abode and it is also known as Samanala Kanda with reference to the flocks of butterflies seen on the mountain as they engage in annual migration. A popular legend associated with this mountain is that the Buddha had preached the Lankavatara Suthra of the Mahayana sector of Buddhism here.

Another legend is that King Walagamba discovered the footprint, being led to it by a deer which he was stalking while living in this forest wilderness after being driven by invaders and the Gods had revealed to him that the footprint was that of the Buddha's. For over centuries the fame of Sri Pada had spread far and wide attracting pilgrims and travellers.

History records that Kings and prominent persons had climbed the mountain. Among them are Kings Nissankamalla (1187-96) who ruled over the whole island from Polonnaruwa. Vijayabahu 1 (1055-1110), Parakramabahu (1153-86) and Panditha Parakramabahu (1236-70), explorer Marco Polo, Ibu Batuta, Rev Fr Odoric, Portugese Captain J Rubeiru, English Surgeon Henry Marsh, Britishers John Davy, R N Kane, B Haylings, George Cookson, N J Ladington, H B Russel and Ratnapura G A Herbert Waise.

The sunrise, is a true spectacle from the summit and pilgrims commence climbing at night to witness this phenomenon. To a viewer from the summit, the sun appears on the eastern side with a leap over the horizon rather than a gradual rise, which is perceived to be its homage to the Buddha's footprint.

Next, a shadow of the mountain falls on the western side in a triangle shape over the landscape. With the sun rising up within minutes, the shadow moves to the base of the mountain rapidly, and finally disappears. The four main rivers in Sri Lanka, the Mahaweli, Kelani, Kalu and the Walawe start from the Sri Pada range.

This had been one reason that prompted ancestor farmers to pay high respects to the mountain. It had been also for this reason that in addition to the Saman Devalaya at the peak, Saman Devalayas had been built on the banks of the Mahaweli at Mahiyangana, Kelani Ganga in Deraniyagala, Kalu Ganga in Ratnapura and Walawe Ganga at Boltumbe. The supply of electricity along the pathway to the Peak summit which was declared open by Prime Minister Sir John Kotelawala in March 1950 is said to have been installed to fulfill a vow made to God Saman in connection with the construction of the Norton Bridge reservoir which initially suffered many failures.

Sri Pada season

The Sri Pada pilgrimage season commences with religious, customs and activities from the Rajamaha Vihara at Galpothwela in Pelmadulla where the sacred relics casket and the ancient sandalwood statue of God Saman are placed.

History records that this temple was built by King Kirthi Sri Rajasinghe (1747-82) who was responsible for the construction of two more temples on the outskirts of Kandy, the Gangarama and the Degaldoruwa, the latter celebrated for its beautiful frescoes.

The traditions begin with the chanting of pirith during which the jewellery bedecked statue of God Saman is brought out at an auspicious time and place for worship and fulfillment of vows by the hundreds of devotees. Buddha poojas and Deva poojas are held with the active participation of all Buddhist monks of the Uda Maluwa and the Kapuralas of the Saman Devalaya.

Procession

On the day before the Unduwap Poya day, the statue placed ceremoniously in an open truck is taken in procession from Pelmadulla to the Sabaragamuwa Maha Devalaya where the procession divides in leaving for the summit, one taking the Ratmalwela route while the main procession journeys along the Avissawella, Kitulgala, Hatton route.

Both processions join at Nallatanni from where they proceed on foot, reaching the summit at dawn on Poya day. At the summit, the footprint is cleaned and washed with scented water followed by the placing of the casket and sacred items at the auspicious hour, and a Buddha Pooja and Deva Pooja immediately thereafter.

The visible foot print is a 1.8 metre rock formation while the real print actually lies beneath this large marking imprinted on a large blue sapphire. The rituals at the peak are carried out under the directions of the Chief Incumbent of Sri Pada who presently is, Dharmakeerthi Sri Sumangala Bengamuwe Dhammadina Nayaka Thera. Following the rituals the peak is declared open to pilgrims for the season. The mountain is often hidden in clouds during the non-seasonal period and torrential rains, extreme cold winds and thick mists make visiting the summit almost impossible during this period.