From the streets to the stage
Yemen finds its voice:
When night falls on Sanaa, one of the Middle East capitals resonating
with calls for democratic change, the revolutionaries shift their
struggle from the streets to an open-air stage at the university.
The bleachers go up, the lights are hung, the crowds gather and an
imaginary curtain rises on the premier theatre in the Yemeni capital, a
city without cinemas where entertainment normally revolves around tea
and qat.
“I was born when President Ali Abdullah Saleh came to power,” says
actor and director Ali al-Saadani, who is among those demanding greater
democracy in the impoverished Arabian Peninsula republic.
Like many other privileged young Yemenis, Ali left his homeland to
study abroad but when he returned he confronted what his fellow youths
now wants to change - a static society where patronage is king.
“I couldn’t get a job with Yemeni TV because I had no support,” says
the artist who has eagerly embraced the new spirit of open debate to
write satirical sketches lampooning the Government.
The shows begin nightly at 9 pm with a performance of devotional
songs from musicians of the Al-Islah Islamic party.
Then the real fun begins, as professional and amateur actors perform
a colourful revue of punchy sketches with uncompromising titles like
“The corrupt regime” or “The bribe” or “The people want the regime to
fall.” Any time an actor mentions President Saleh by name, the crowd
erupts with cries of “get lost!”
Ahmad al-Chammari passes through the rows of spectators offering hot
cups of tea, the beverage of choice on cool evenings in a city located
some 2,000 metres (6,500 feet) above sea level.
“I graduated from the University of Sanaa two years ago and I’m still
unemployed. But many of those who completed their studies after me have
become managers because of their connections,” he says.
On the stage, the actors play out a scene that has become familiar to
Yemenis after weeks of protests that have left at least 27 people dead
since late January, according to a toll compiled by Amnesty
International.
A gang of thugs in the pay of the regime beats student protesters
with batons, sending them fleeing for their lives.
Their missions accomplished, the strongmen head to the ministry to
get their money, but are denied. The bad guys turn their blows on the
minister, and the crowd applauds with approval.
In such moments of levity, the Yemenis’ favorite pastime – the
chewing of qat – is never far away. Sellers of the mildly stimulating
plant are also embracing the heady spirit of the times.
Ali Moqdam sells the fresh green leaves from a small tent with a
banner that proclaims. The Dawn
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