My first 'Theatre Night' and Gosconcert
THEATRE: Readers may have been wondering about Vasily calling
me "Dhjayasena" and calling our country "Tsylon'. Later, I found out
that it has all to do with the Russian alphabet.
Unfortunately for me there is no 'H' in it. That must be why, my
friend Vasily carried a placard with 'Tayasena' written on it.
Well, the next best thing he could have done was to have 'Gayasena'
on it. I was glad I did not make a fuss about it. "h" is simply not
there in the Russian alphabet. Neither do they have an equivalent to
'J'.
BALLET: A scene from Swan Lake
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They use 'G' for 'H' and a kind of 'DHJ' for 'J'. So I become 'Gyenry
Dhjayasena' in Moscow. To hell with it, what's in a name after all! Why
shouldn't I be simple 'Gyenry' when the greatest anti-hero in
Shakespeare, Hamlet, becomes a 'Gaamlet' in Russia?
Of course how dear old 'Ceylon' became 'Tsylon', I cannot quite
explain. It must be a matter of phonetics, like 'Muskva' becoming
Moscow' to us, or 'Nihon' becoming 'Japan'. I learnt a little habit of
the Russian alphabet and just enough day-to-day words to get along, as
the weeks went on.
But certainly not enough to understand a play, as my friend Reggie
predicted. Nevertheless, actually, there was no difficulty in
understanding and following a given play whether it be one I knew in
English, or did not. The interpreter helped a little, but the 'flow' of
the play could easily be grasped.
I was thankful to Reggie for telling me that you don't only 'hear' a
work of art like a play, but that you also 'see' and understand and
grasp its nuances.
Let me get back to my first 'Theatre Night' in Moscow, Swan Lake at
the Bolshoi. It was stupendous. It was totally mesmerizing.
Indescribably beautiful.
I had never seen anything like it before - I mean a real ballet with
all its intricate moves, rapturous music, unbelievable stage effects,
lighting and ethereal costumes.
One is wafted into a totally different, beautiful and poignant world.
Of course the great Ulanova - best known prima ballerina of Soviet
Russia - was not there at that time.
I believe she had retired just a few years ago. But to a novice like
me, even the new Prima Ballerina (in 1964) was heavenly. Unfortunately I
have lost the play-bills and I cannot quote her name.
Ethereal swans
The Prince was as effective as the Swan herself. He was all grace and
suppleness. All the dancers in the actual swan lake scenes did look like
ethereal swans with so much grace and sheer beauty of movement.
Strangely enough, the bad guy in the ballet reminded me very much of our
own Chitrasena in Karadiya.
The particular actor either looked like him, or maybe it was the make
up, but he did look as formidable as vicious as our own man as the 'Mandadirala'
in Karadiya!
The Bolshoi Ballet Theatre House itself is a marvel. It looks
imposing enough from the outside with its huge arches and ornate
pillars. Once inside, one marvels even more.
I believe it is a symbol of the grand old Tsarist Russia. The seating
is excellently and expertly deployed. They are very comfortable.
The special balconies left and right of the proscenium are extremely
imposing and as ornate as a Tsarina would have been! I believe the
Bolshoi Ballet Theatre House in Moscow is as sacred to Muscovites as the
Dalada Maligawa is to us.
In Moscow, indeed in the whole of Russia, there are two intervals in
between the performance, and any performance rarely went under three or
two and a half hours. The first interval lasts fifteen or twenty minutes
during which most of the spectators rush to one of the several food and
beverages outlets and give themselves a substantial feed.
And they always find the time to savour a bit of their favourite
vodka or cognac. The second interval would be shorter - about ten
minutes. The no smoking rule inside theatres and in the foyer etc. is
strictly adhered to. One could take a puff in an ill ventilated smoking
room almost always by the side of the toilets and that is no pleasure in
deed!
In our enthusiasm to view the whole place and to talk about the
night's performance Vasily and I missed out on the customary snack. In
fact I felt no hunger at all in my elated mood.
After the curtains came down to repeated rounds of thunderous
applause, which lasted a good ten minutes at least, Vasily left me at
the entrance to my hotel and departed. We were to meet at 8 a.m. the
next day too.
Suddenly I began to feel hunger pangs and went towards the
restaurant. It was closed. I was to learn later that most restaurants
and eating places in the city closed by 10 p.m. I had not had even a cup
of tea after lunch. The time was past eleven.
Foreign guests
In most hotels in Russia, at least in the big ones, there is always a
'Babushka' (an old lady) seated at the entrance to each floor. They look
stern, but could be very kind too.
As I approached her after climbing two flights of stairs, I indicated
to her, by sign language, that I was hungry, very hungry. She looked at
me with wide eyes and asked me several questions in Russian.
I signalled to her that the restaurant was closed. I am sure she knew
I had been to the Bolshoi. I believe it is their duty to be informed of
the comings and going of their guests - especially foreign guests. She
babbled further, admonishing me perhaps, for not eating something, at
least at the theatre.
I put my hands up in hopelessness and was about to proceed towards my
room, when she stopped me. "Pashaluista.." (could mean please, excuse
me, go on, wait a minute etc. etc. - it is a many splendoured word in
the Russian language)
She said and walked past me towards a cabinet out of which she
brought out a whole lot of assorted biscuits, a couple of bread rolls
and a some cheese.
It was my turn now to look bewildered. "Spaceeba...!" I said "Ochen
Spaceeba..!" (thank you, thank you very much - I had already learnt the
phrase)
I went into my room and brought a small packet of Ceylon tea. I had
brought a whole lot of such packets. I was advised to do so. I already
knew that Russians were very fond of our tea. The Babushka was overjoyed
when she was presented with the tea.
She thanked me profusely. She ran hither and thither and collected
quite a few more women and started making the tea while I enjoyed a
dinner of biscuits, a bread roll and some cheese.
They made a toast of the tea and kept saying "Harosha, Ochen Harosha...!"
(excellent, absolutely excellent) I must say I felt like a bit of a
hero. I was in a way glad I had missed that snack and made good friends
with a lot of Babushkas!
Next morning I related the incident to Vasily and he was very happy.
He was also a little upset that he had not warned me to have something
to eat before going to the Theatre.
"You must always eat something before going out to Theatres. Or have
some snack there. Our people close their restaurants and eating places
early because of the cold nights." he said. "Of course during summer it
is different," he added.
Supervision
That morning Vasily took me to the place from where the 'Gosconcert"
functioned. The Gosconcert, as I have already mentioned, is the place
from where all theatre activity, concerts and musicals that took place
in Moscow were planned.
Any foreign guests coming in connected to these spheres of activity
also came under their supervision and guidance. Even the theatre fare of
each Theatre House was decided in consultation with the Gosconcert. So I
came to know. I don't know if the system prevails still, Perhaps most
unlikely.
They had a very cordial and friendly chat with me at the Gosconcernt.
They had drawn up a schedule of activity for me based as far as
possible, on my own proposals. My main proposal was to see as much
theatre as possible, and visit as many Actor Training Institutes etc. in
Moscow, during the first four months of my fellowship.
I proposed to travel to other cities such as Leningrad, Riga. Kiev,
Baku and Tashkent and see their (provincial) theatre as well and visit
places of interest.
Student-observer
At the Gosconcert they told me that they were very happy to have a
student-observer from the East. Apparently I was their first
student-observer in the recent past from our climes. They were very
happy to accommodate me in Moscow and expose me to as much activity as
possible.
"There would be certain problems when it comes to sending you to
other far away cities." They told me. "There would be problems of
providing you with an interpreter to travel with you, his or her
expenses etc. But anyway let's come to that when the time comes.
Meanwhile do enjoy your stay in Moscow and make full use of it."
The spectacled man behind the imposing table told me further. "Sir, I
am very keen to travel and see and experience your other marvellous
cities too." I replied earnestly.
"I am sure UNESCO will agree to bear the expenses. "Gaspadin Jayasena,
(he pronounced my name correctly) let's address that matter when the
time comes." The man smiled broadly, ending our interview.
Interview
Something I noticed during our interview was that my interpreter,
Vasily, hardly ever spoke, neither did he offer to make any suggestion.
When he did venture to on just one or two points, there was a look from
the 'big man' behind the table which clearly said that his contribution
was unnecessary and Vasily obliged with a tight little smile.
That evening, being a holiday for Theatres, I was to meet my unseen
friend from our Embassy in Moscow-Karen Breckenridge.
Thought of the week
One of our veteran Civil Servants, now retired, has written a very
interesting book consisting of his childhood memories of his native
village - Mullegama situated in the green spreads of the Western
Province. The man is Amaradasa Gunewardhana, who has served in a number
of capacities under several Governments.
I believe the highlight of his career was his long spell as Govt.
Agent, Polonnaruwa, to which beloved home from home, he returns annually
to immerse himself with the people he loved and served and to breathe
the rustic air he had enriched with many a new venture.
The book titled 'Ma Lama Kaalaye Mage Gama' (My village of my
childhood) is written with love, nostalgia and a deep rooted belonging.
Amaradasa dedicates his book to his mother - 'To my Rattaran Amma, born
in the village of Mullegama and buried in the cemetery of
Katukurunduhena of the village itself, who brought us up with
incomparable love and led us on the good path.'
The book is extremely good reading. With this book, Amaradasa joins
the small fraternity of retired Civil Servants who have wielded their
pen for the greater good of future generations - who may never see a
Pinna bloom, a 'unahapuluwa', a 'sudu redi hora', or a 'kaha kurulla'.
My humble salutations to you, my friend, for this piece of
wonderment, joys and sorrows and above all, the memory of a real village
as only we saw it.
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