Case for a 'Slow Food' movement in Sri Lanka

FOOD: What people eat (or don't eat) has always been determined by a complex interplay of social, economic and technological forces. The early Roman Republic was fed by its citizen-farmers; the Roman Empire, by its slaves. A nation's diet can be more revealing than its art or literature.

For example, on any given day in the United States about one-quarter of the adult population visits a fast food restaurant. In Sri Lanka too, fast food giants are beginning to take over the control of our eating habits.

As things are going on, it is a matter of few years, we too will emulate the US example.

During a relatively brief period of time, the fast food industry has helped to transform not only Sri Lankan urban diet, but also our economy and popular culture.

Fast food and its consequences have become inescapable, regardless of whether you eat it twice a day, try to avoid it, or have never taken a single bite.

Research done in USA claims People who eat fast food frequently are more likely to gain weight and develop insulin resistance, and such eating habits may increase the risk of obesity and type-2 diabetes.

These findings suggest that frequent fast food consumption cannot be part of a healthful diet, despite claims to the contrary by the food industry.

However, in Sri Lanka there have been no large-scale, long-term studies examining the health effects of fast food, which is surprising given that this is slowly becoming the dominant dietary pattern among children and young adults today.

In the absence of such data, the fast food industry is allowed to market their products without restriction to young children.

In the late 1980s, to combat the fast food craze originated by McDonalds, a movement known as 'slow-food' came into existence in Italy.

The movement claimed to preserve the cultural cuisine and the associated food plants and seeds, domestic animals and farming within an eco region.

It was begun by Carlo Petrini as a resistance movement to fast food but has since expanded globally. It now describes itself (humorously) as an 'eco-gastronomy faction' within the ecology movement, and some refer to the movement as the 'culinary wing' of the anti-globalization movement.

The movement has expanded to include over 80,000 members in over 100 countries, every country with its own chapters.

All totalled, 800 local chapters exist.

The organisational structure is decentralised, each chapter has a leader who is responsible for promoting local artisans, local farmers, and local flavours through regional events such as Taste Workshops and farmers' markets.

Offices have been opened in Switzerland, Germany, New York, France and the latest, Japan in 2005; the head offices are located in northern Italy.

Slow Food Critics have charged it with being elitist, as it discourages nominally cheaper alternative methods of growing or preparing food.

Slow Food responds by claiming to be working towards local production and consumption which will exploit 'best practices' of science and professions worldwide but ultimately prove cheaper due to less reliance on transport and energy and chemical and technology intensive methods.

The Slow Food Manifesto declares itself as a firm defence of quiet material pleasure, which they say, is the only way to oppose the universal folly of Fast Life.

A further mark of the movement's resistance to the increasingly aggressive advance of food and cultural standardisation is their commitment to educating children in the pleasures of the table.

There are tasting sessions for children at every Slow Food festival, while Slow Food has collaborated with teachers in schools to educate children on the importance of the senses as a tool of knowledge.

Globalization, in Slow Food's view, has the potential to help as well as harm the small food producer. On the one hand, globalization has the homogenizing effect of allowing multinational corporations to extend their reach to virtually every corner of the world.

But at the same time, by making it easier for members of small minorities (eg., beekeepers) to communicate at a distance, it creates openings for niche cultures to thrive.

"In our century, born and nurtured under the sign of industrialization, the machine was invented and then turned into the role model of life. Speed became our shackles," the manifesto says.

"We fall prey to the same virus: 'The Fast Life' that fractures our customs, assails us even in our own homes, cages us and feeds us fast food."

The remedy? An adequate portion of sure sensual pleasures, to be taken with slow and prolonged enjoyment - beginning in the kitchen with the preparation of an elaborate meal, and ending at the table with fine desert and rambling conversation.

Rather than being afraid of fast food giants, the Slow Food is determined to take it head on and win. Despite its name, it is clear that the Movement's growth continues apace.

Isn't it time we should go for a slow food movement? Perhaps we could pick up a lesson or two from the global Slow Food Movement. Food for thought for the consumers who believe that our fast food scenario needs a complete overall!