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| Tuesday, 12 October 2004 |
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Edinburgh - symbol of Scottish Nationhood by Lionel Wijesiri in Scotland Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland, is said to be one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. This distinction is partly an accident of Nature, for the city is built upon a jumble of hills and valleys; however, during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries the natural geography was enhanced by the works of a succession of distinguished Georgian and Victorian architects.
The result today is high drama; there are countless spots where Edinburgh looks less like a city and more like a theatrical backdrop. The view from Edinburgh's Calton Hill, across the River Forth to Fife, looks more like a scene from ancient Rome. Edinburgh incidentally, is named after Edwin, a king of ancient Northumbria; it has been a Royal Burgh since at least the twelfth century, and has been recognized as the capital of Scotland since the fifteenth. Edinburgh Castle is visited annually by approximately one million people - if we except the Tower of London that is more people than visit any other ancient monument in the United Kingdom. Within the confines of the Castle, there is much to see.
It was the seat (and regular refuge) of Scottish Kings, and the historical apartments include the Great Hall, which now houses an interesting collection of weapons and Armour. The Royal apartments include a tiny room in which Mary, Queen of Scots gave birth to the boy who was to become King James VI of Scotland and James 1 of England upon the death of Queen Elizabeth in 1603. The ancient Honours of Scotland - the Crown, the Sceptre and the Sword of State - are on view in the Crown Room. Nearby is the Scottish National War Memorial, a building designed and created shortly after the First World War; many who enter find the experience a moving one. Edinburgh Castle is also the home of the One O'clock Gun. This is fired every day except Sunday at precisely 1.00pm to provide everyone with an accurate check for their clocks and watches. It will certainly startle you if you are anywhere near the Castle at that moment!
The oldest building in all Edinburgh is to be found within the Castle precincts. It is St. Margaret's Chapel, a tiny Norman building that has been standing there intact for more than 900 years. It has survived all the sieges and bombardments to which the fortress on the rock was subjected during that period. On several occasions the castle was razed - but the demolishers invariably spared the chapel of the good St Margaret because of its religious significance. Today, members of the castle garrison still have the right to be married within the Chapel. The Castle Esplanade is the venue of the world-famous Edinburgh Military Tattoo, the annual occasion on which, over a period of three weeks in August, the Army presents a lively programme of music, marching and historical re-enactments under floodlights before large and appreciative audiences.
What is a "Tattoo"? The word is derived from the old Dutch term that described the scene when a military band and drums would parade through a garrison town to alert the taverns that it was curfew for the soldiers, the beer taps should be cut off, and the soldiers should return to their barracks. Over the centuries this has evolved into a dazzling display of military band precision, bagpipe glory and emotion, and drum drama. The first Edinburgh Tattoo took place in 1950, with only 8 items on the programme. It has evolved from these simple beginnings to an international event witnessed by over 100 million people each year on television, and viewed by over 200,000 visitors in person. The Tattoo is proud of the fact that not a single performance has ever been cancelled - a tribute to the hardiness of both performers and audience given the occasionally unpredictable Scottish weather! The best military bands, bagpipes and drums in the world perform every August in a night time spectacle in the courtyard of historic Edinburgh Castle. The Tattoo is the centrepiece of the citywide, month-long arts festival in Edinburgh, which includes theatrical performances, ballets, concerts, street performers and more. Town Before leaving the Esplanade, if you look in the north-east corner you will see a small iron wall-fountain; it is popularly known as the Witches' Well, and it commemorates the grim fact that, centuries ago, many women held to be guilty of witchcraft were put to death at the stake on this spot. To the north, between the Castle and the Firth of Forth, the spectator has his first glimpse of Edinburgh's new town. To the east, below the Castle ramparts the visitor is recommended to take a close look at the Old Town. Edinburgh's New Town is a masterpiece of Georgian planning. James Craig, 23 year old architect, won the city planning contest in 1787 and his rectangular and symmetrical gridiron of three main parallel streets linking two large squares reflects the Scottish belief in order. The Royal Mile defines the length of the old town - the medieval centre of Edinburgh - and passes some of Edinburgh's classic old houses and attractions. Defended by Edinburgh castle at the top of the hill and Holyrood Palace at the bottom, the old town once packed thousands of inhabitants into a scant few square miles. Edinburgh's small size in no way hampers its cosmopolitan vitality. In addition to the castles and historic buildings of old, Edinburgh holds a growing mixture of museums, theatres and gardens. Whether it is the litany of literary ghosts or the ever-present pint of dark ale that is behind the city's creative stirrings is up for debate. Edinburgh is a city of paradox. |
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