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by Anton J. Jesuthasan (Sajj)

They call it "God's own Country" - Kerala. Kerala is also an age-old home of Ayurveda, the ancient Eastern system of health and medicine.

Ayurveda in many Indian languages translates into 'the science of life'. Some scholars and practitioners say that the science evolved in India from about 600 B.C. Some believe that Ayurveda is eternal, that it is a collection of the principles of life that started with life itself, that these principles were handed down to man by Brahma, the Creator.

No matter what the origins, it is generally accepted that it is an ancient system that is efficacious. It is also becoming popular in the West as useful alternative therapy for many chronic illnesses. Harley Street in London, famed for its reputable medical clinics and specialists, houses an Ayurvedic consultancy under the patronage of Maharishi Mahes Yogi who introduced Transcendental Meditation to the world.

Ancient sages who were the repositories of this knowledge are said to have divided the science into eight branches, very much like the specialisations we meet with in allopathic or western medicine: general medicine, general surgery, paediatrics, psychiatry, diseases of the head, ear, nose and throat, toxicology, rejuvenation therapy and aphrodisiac therapy. How strong Ayurveda is in surgery is generally not very clear.

Five elements

As laymen, we have heard that the human body is made up of five elements (Pancha Maha Bhuthas), Akasa or air, Vayu or the vital force, Tejas which are minerals, acids, alkalis etc, Jala or water and Prithvi which is organic or earthy matter, that any part of the body is an inseparable combination of these elements. Ayurveda posits that three mega-divisions of the body particles termed Vata, Pitta and Kapha should always be in correct balance, and a physiological imbalance causes sickness. The treatment is to re-establish the balance.

Kerala is said to have had Ayurvedic physicians of repute through the ages. Although the advent of allopathic medicine into India and western influences had led to the decline of the development and practice of Ayurveda for a time, over some decades some while ago, some energetic and enterprising men of the time took up the study of Ayurveda under a few remaining teacher-practitioners (Gurus), and restored the science to its pristine glory, especially in Kerala, thus accounting for Kerala's present recognition as a great stronghold of the science of Ayurveda.

Kerala also claims that some special treatment prescribed in ancient medical lore for some of the most distressing diseases, is practised only in Kerala. The most important special courses found most effective in illnesses such as paralysis, arthritis, insanity and diseases affecting cranial nerves are said to include variously 'Sirovasti,' 'Pizhichil' etc., together with oral intake of appropriate kashayas (decoctions) and churnas (powders) etc.

In 'Sirovasti', several litres of warm medicated oil at bearable temperature is kept for an hour or an hour and a half on the head with a leather cap fitted around the head to hold the oil, while a therapist gently but vigorously rubs the entire body with the same oil that whole period of time. In 'Pizhichil' thin pieces of linen dipped in warm medicated oil is squeezed over the body and gently massaged in by four therapists for an hour or more, with the patient lying flat and prone on a specially designed wooden bed. Kerala, nestled along the south-western coast of India between the Arabian Sea and both the States of Tamil Nadu and Karnataka, is a country which is a veritable twin of Sri Lanka.

Flying into the port city of Cochin about half way into Kerala, over thick jungles and miles of coastline and vast acres of coconut groves, one wonders if one is flying into Sri Lanka's Bandaranaike International airport at Katunayake. On landing, one finds the Immigration and Customs officials helpful and friendly, perhaps reminding one more of Singapore, a country greatly conscious of the value of the tourist dollar.

Out and in the open, you do not feel that you have left Sri Lanka behind , everyone looks an Appuhamy or Ariyakutty, only they respond to a somewhat different name. After all, Sri Lankans are all Malabaris, some contend or concede!

Kerala is well advertised and promoted these days, mainly by interests outside its peripheries, as an Ayurvedic health-haven.

While there is much publicity about Kerala, about the fitness and cosmetic benefits to be derived from its Ayurveda, especially from tour packagers and deluxe holiday providers, there are the pure, holistic, health providers who provide curative or palliative treatment to several illnesses, sometimes as a provider of last resort, with cosmetic benefits accruing as incidentals.

The Kottakkal Arya Vaidya Sala is one such provider, and indeed a prime provider.

Kottakkal is a little town, a little more than half-way up the length of the country, hence the choice of Cochin for touch-down. If one desires a closer airport, there is Calicut, which however is not an international airport. Wattala or Gampaha, or a wayside small town on the way to Kandy could come quite close to Kottakkal in amenities and looks. Dominating and adding vibrancy to this little rural town is the Kottakal Arya Vaidya Sala.

Resurrected

Founded more than one hundred years ago, and based on a tradition of several centuries or more, a tradition resurrected from decline in the early twentieth century, Kotakkal Arya Vaidya Sala is now administered by a Charitable Trust set up by the founder.

In terms of the founder's Will, the hospital became a Charitable Trust after his death in 1944. This does not mean that the hospital doles out free treatment; its profits go to charity.

The treatment is by no means inexpensive although relatively so compared with the five-star providers, but the attention and treatment provided spells dedication and skill.

While the Vaidya Sala itself is not a charity, it runs a charity hospital separately for the poor where the treatment is claimed to be in no way inferior. The hospital runs its own Ayurveda College, founded in 1917 and now affiliated to the Calicut University. Students who have passed out from the college are at present said to be serving in all parts of India.

The patients, most of whom do not appear sick but do suffer from one or more illnesses come from far and wide, in India and abroad - from every continent. The Institution has branches or depots in many parts of India, and now abroad like in Singapore, and the hospital in Kottakkal accommodates over 100 patients and their helpers who are family or friends. The wait for in-patient admission takes several months, if not a year or more, although an occasional exception is made when warranted. The patients are thus generally not 'accident and emergency' (A&E) cases.

There is much fellowship amongst the patients and many new friendships develop.

There are also recommended seasons for commencing treatment. Ancestors are said to have chosen three months as suitable for Kerala climate: Tulam, mid-October to mid-November, Kumbham, mid-February to mid-March and Karitakam, mid-July to mid-August, when colds, heat and rain are moderate.

Serious and emergent cases need not wait for the seasons they say, but due caution needs to be exercised in such cases.

The hospital provides on-line consultation for those who cannot visit the hospital. Branches and depots dotted around the country and abroad supply the required medication.

The hospital has extensive in-house research facility, and grows most of the required medical plants and herbs. There is a canteen in the hospital premises which serves 'patient' and other food. The amenities include a Yoga Centre, an internet caf, and a library. During certain times, musical and other fine art activities are conducted with distinguished visiting artists participating.

The treatment is greatly varied, but comprises mainly of reasonably palatable Kashayas, and churnas, which are oral medicine, thailayas which is medicated, herbal oils applied mostly on the head and all over the body, poultices, and pathya or diet regimen, which is generally vegetarian, though there seem to be exceptions, and somewhat, though not overly, restrictive.

Sri Lanka itself is no stranger to Ayurveda, although, unlike in Kerala, or generally India, allopathic treatment is what most Sri Lankans seem to opt for as their first choice.

In fact both the Sinhala and Tamil Ayurveda traditions have boasted many reputed generations and families of Ayurvedic physicians amongst them. However, the present generation from among these families have largely embraced allopathy, if they are still sticking to the medical field.

First approach

Sri Lankan Ayurveda also seems to be promoted more for its cosmetic and fitness aspects, than for the curative and palliative, both in and out of the country. Not that such promotion is altogether absent in Kerala, but the average Keralite seems to look to Ayurveda as his first approach.

Some of us, or many amongst us, are long-term sufferers of some form of ill-health or another. We may have given-up on allopathic treatments, and are resigned to accepting our lot with whatever dignity we can muster.

If and when we learn of an alternative treatment, homeopathy, reflexology, reiki, ayurveda, whatever, is it not our inclination to try it out first, and then share our experience with fellow-sufferers? This article is of that 'genre'.

Both the country and the hospital were also a unique experience. The accommodation and amenities at the hospital are basic, but satisfactory. A Sri Lankan may leave the place with the feeling why, with all its traditions and skills, his country does not provide such equivalents readily and affordably, or if it did, why it is not widely known!

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