|
|
 |
 |
 |
| Wednesday, 6 August 2003 |
 |
|
 |
Features | |
| News Business Features Editorial Security Politics World Letters Sports Obituaries
|
Germany's romantic ruins and indescribable charm by Lionel Wijesiri on a recent visit to Germany As we entered the city of Heidelberg, my German friend asked me whether I have visited the Palace of Versailles. When my reply was negative, he politely remarked: "Don't worry, what you are now going to witness is as good as Versailles or Acropolis."
Maybe he was right. For me, Heidelberg was one of the prettiest and best-preserved towns in Germany, set in picture-postcard perfection alongside the Neckar River, with a classic castle towering above. Filled with Old World charm, it was like something dreamed up by Disney. The story of Heidelberg begins with the earliest human remains ever found in Germany. "Heidelberg Man" walked the area about 600 000 years ago, and left a jawbone behind. Romans moved in about 80 A.D., staying until about the year 260. In 1196, when it was just a small village at the base of a castle, the first written reference to "Heidelberg" appeared. French troops almost decimated the town in 1693, following years of conflict between royal claimants. During the next century, the city was rebuilt in a mix of styles, following a Gothic pattern but with Baroque architecture. The Castle
The castle was built on steep cliffs to prevent invasion from the front, with high walls and a dry moat protecting the rear from the French invaders Even in its deteriorated state, it looked as one of the finest Gothic-Renaissance structures in Germany. Entering the walls at the main gate, we first came upon the huge Gun Park to our left, from which you can gaze down upon panoramic view of Heidelberg city and the Neckar Valley. Straight ahead was the Thick Tower, or what remained of it after its 8m (25-ft.) walls were blown up by the French in the late 17th century. Leaving the Gun Park via Elizabeth's Gate (erected by Friedrich V in 1615 for his Scottish wife, the daughter of James I), we came to the Bridge Hosue and the bridge crossing the site of the former moat. Along the north side of the courtyard stretched the stern Palace of Friedrich IV, erected 1601 to 1607. The palace was less damaged than other parts of the castle, and its rooms have been almost completely restored, including the gallery of princes and kings of the German empire from the time of Charlemagne. The ancient bell tower, at the northeast end of the Altan, dated from the early 1500s. The Renaissance faŘade of the Friedrich Building, dripped with sculptural and architectural details. It was the living quarters for the Duke of Bavaria, and embellished with 16 statues depicting emperors and kings of the Wittelsbach dynasty. Great Cask At the west end of the terrace, in the cellars of the castle, was the Wine Vat Building, built in the late 16th century and was really worth a visit for a look at the Great Cask, symbol of the abundant and exuberant life of the Rhineland-Palatinate.
The cask contained the world's largest wine barrel, made from 120 large oak trees, with a capacity of 275,000 bottles of wine. It was so big that there was a wooden staircase leading to a viewing platform on the top, which then descended steeply down the other side. There was a network of pipes running throughout the castle to deliver the wine in a fantastic plumbing system. Three times as much wine was stored elsewhere in the cellar, for a total of 1 million bottles. The steady stream of guzzling reportedly averaged 2,000 litres every day. As we emerged from the cellar, an archway carried us from the courtyard to the Great Terrace, offering a vista similar to our first view but from a slightly different angle. To the east, connecting the palace of Friedrich IV to the Ottheinrich Building, itself an outstanding example of German Renaissance architecture, was the Hall of Mirrors Building, constructed in 1549 - a Renaissance masterpiece. Only the shell of the original building remains, enough to give anyone an idea of its former glory, with its arcades and steep gables decorated with cherubs and sirens.
For a complete castle experience we visited the private rooms of the royal families who lived here during its three centuries of glory. What looked like a rugged fortification is a splendid palace, with a mix of decor ranging from the Renaissance through the Baroque eras. The rooms feature murals, stucco reliefs, period furnishings, ceramic stoves, marble statues, wood mosaic floors and a large reception hall still used for special events. As we once again emerged into the castle courtyard, we had a last look at the facades, the fountain, and the variety of trees and flowers because our next stop was the Castle Garden. Castle Garden The Castle Garden was originally a rocky chasm that provided a barrier, defending the castle's flank. In the early 17th century, King Friedrich V decided to fill it in with statues, fountains, flowerbeds, greenhouses, baths, fish ponds and other delights. It developed a reputation as the eighth wonder of the world, but the king's disregard for the castle's natural defences backfired during the "Thirty Years" War, when invading armies used the gardens as an avenue for attack. Subsequent wars destroyed the landscape, which was abandoned, then redesigned in the early 19th century in the simple English style we see today. I took a final deep look at the castle. It struck the eye at once that the castle did not arise from any uniform construction plan and that there was no common building line nor any unifying building style. To the west and the south the dominant element was the very plain Gothic structures. To the north and the east it was the massive stone walls and magnificent Renaissance Palace with its rich decoration of sculptured figures. Taken all together, they form a backdrop of indescribable charm which draw over three million visitors per year from all over the world. |
|
News | Business | Features
| Editorial | Security
Produced by Lake House |
