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| Friday, 25 July 2003 |
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Pada Yatra to the Jungle God's sylvan shrine - a tradition revived by Florence Wickramage Esela is the month of festivals where several religious festivals gain prominence in the multi ethnic and multi religious Lankan society. Queen of these festivals is the Mahanuwara Esela Perahera held in veneration of the Sacred Tooth Relic which this year begins in the first week of August. Preceding the Esela Perahera are Hindu festivities held in veneration of God Skanda at Kataragama and Goddess Kali at Munneswaram.
Kataragama is a favourite pilgrim location visited by Sri Lankans irrespective of religion and for many a visit to this jungle shrine lying beyond seven hills is an yearly event. Kataragama Deviyo as is popularly known among the Sinhalese, is also called Lord Muruga, God Karthikeya and Arumuhan by the Hindus. Pilgrims to this jungle shrine take a dip in the cool clear waters of the Menik Ganga before proceeding to the Devale to take part in religious obligations. An important factor in the Kataragama festival is the Pada Yatra which originated as early as 1983, but held in abeyance for over a decade due to the conflict in the North. In 1988 the Kataragama Devotees Trust was established to revive and support ancient traditions such as the Pada Yatra. The annual Pada Yatra has already begun and pilgrims from as far as Jaffna and Mullaitivu Districts start walking to Kataragama to finally reach the destination after about a month or two. Along the way the walking pilgrims are greeted by devotees who provide them with sustenance and almsgivings while some hand over to them coins tied in red strips of cloth as vows to be taken to the devale. The Pada Yatra gains in numbers as the `walk' continues through villages and jungles and they are greeted with "Haro Hara" by the faithful. It is also said that many villagers make vows to join the Pada Yatra which Hindus feel is an obligation to Lord Muruga.
According to the organisers of the Kataragama Devotees Trust, the Pada Yatra helps build a national vision of peace apart from being a spiritual exercise. They say that "God Kataragama whose vehicle is the Peacock is very popular and highly respected as he is above sectarian religion. Kataragama is a place where people of all races and religions mix and are bonded together in faith". A spokesman for the Trust said that they have " a national vision which aims towards a peaceful and prosperous Sri Lanka that is a multi-cultural, multi-ethnic, multi-faith and plural society, where cultural diversity is recognized as a source of national wealth and strength". Claims Many colourful legends and stories are woven round God Kataragama and his abode, among which is the belief that he is a local deity. While Hindus claim that Kataragama is their holiest place several records reveal Buddhist and Mohammedan claims to it. The Veddahs see in Kataragama a holy place of their forefathers - Skanda's romantic adventure with the girl Valli born from a doe and brought up by the Veddahs being the connecting link. While the epic heroic poem Skanda Puranaya (originally in Sanskrit) records legends regarding the God and the Hindu belief, according to Buddhist belief Kataragama belonged to the sixteen places in India and Ceylon where Buddha rested in deep meditation. This had taken place in Kataragama on the occasion of the Buddha's third visit to Lanka. According to Buddhist annals the King Maha Sen together with the Buddha is supposed to have stayed at Kataragama or Kajaragama, as the place is called in the Pali- handscripts around the year 569 B.C. Several years later Vijaya is supposed to have built a temple in honour of Kadirai Andavar, the God-king, in that very place. The Mahavamsa reveals that a branch of the Bo-tree brought to Lanka by Theri Sangamittha was planted in Kataragama as the place was dedicated to Gautama Buddha. There is also a belief that Kataragama was one of the earliest settlements and the Kiri Vehera dates back to this time. The sanctuary of Kataragama dates back to the King Dutugamunu era who is supposed to have built it due to gratitude to the deity for his victory over King Elara. There is also a legend that an Islamist called Hoyathu, who came to Ceylon from India settled down in Kataragama. A belief exists that the present day mosque though distantly located in land belonging to the Devale was the former residence and religious place of Hoyathu. Paul Wirz in his book on Kataragama written in German (later translated into English) states that in 1872 another pious man called Jabbar Ali Sha, came to Kataragama and was buried there. A magnificent grave had been built near the mosque which today forms the actual centre of worship for the Islamic pilgrims that come to Kataragama. The book also mentions that the highest Islamic priest Meer Sayed Mohammed Alishi Bawa who came to Kataragama in 1910 was also buried close to the mosque. During the Kataragama season pious Islamites visit this place where they arrange a procession around the mosque inside which the usual services take place. Visions Pious pilgrims claim that they have had visions of God Kataragama. Very often seen as a white long-bearded, white clad old man leading into safety those stranded in the jungles. Stories have been written about more similar visions experienced by pilgrims meditating under the large trees surrounding the devale premises. With the transformation into a modern city, this once dreamy jungle hamlet of Kataragama has lost its natural charm despite which the gentle Menik Ganga and the invisible Jungle Deity continue to attract large crowds and pious pilgrims to this popular sylvan shrine. |
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