Kiri Vehera
Focal point of pilgrimage to the South:
Ruwini JAYAWARDANA
Around 200 miles from Colombo in the humid zone of Kataragama,
Southern province, nestles one of the main shrines of the island. Kiri
Vehara is recognized as one of the most important 16 pilgrimage sites in
Sri Lanka (Solosmastana as described in the ancient gathas).Though the
temple is the main attraction a pilgrimage is hardly complete without
visiting Maha Bodiya, Kataragama Devale, Sella Kataragama and
Vedihitikanda.
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Kiri Vehera |
As in most historical tales, there are many stories in connection
with the origin of the stupa. The popular belief is that the original
version of the stupa was one of the greatest creations built during
third Century B.C. by King Parakramabahu The Great of Polonnaruwa at the
request of Queen Subadra.
Another tale relates that the shrine was built by a local king called
Mahasena after discovering that the site was visited by the Buddha.
As ancient scriptures relate the Buddha was believed to have visited
Kataragama during his third visit to Sri Lanka. Both the
Samanthapasadika and Pujavaliya mention that he had resided at a place
called ‘Kihiriuanan’ during his stay in Kataragama (previously titled
Kajaragama), the very place on which the Kataragama Ceitya stands today.
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God Kataragama |
Devotees believe that a lock of hair of the Buddha along with the
sword with which Prince Siddhartha cut off his hair during the Great
Renunciation are enshrined within the walls of the temple. The Ceitya
had been known as ‘Rupavathi Stupa’ during that period and some even
claim that it had been named ‘Magul Maha Seya’.
A story related to the historic roots would not be complete without
mythology. Villagers do not fail to relate that God Skanda (alias
Kataragama or Kanda Kumara), the Hindu god of War, shot an arrow from
the peak of the Vedihitikanda.
He vowed that wherever the arrow lands, a temple should accommodate
the spot. Many also believe that God Kataraga is the next in line as the
Bodhisatva (one aspiring to be a Buddha) and holds the ingredients to
save man from suffering and destruction in years to come. Standing
majestically at 95 feet and 250 feet in circumference the Kiri Vehera
possesses a charm of its own to contribute to the tales interwoven into
its folds of bricks, mortar and coats of milky white paint. The stupa
took the shape of a bell (Ghantakara) when it was first constructed but
later it took the form of a bubble (Bubbulakara).
Visitors need to cross the Menik Ganga before entering the compound
in which the stupa stands.
It is an age old custom that the pilgrims take a cool, refreshing
bath in the sacred waters of the river before offering flowers, fruits
and incense at the shrine.
Another notable fact about the Vehera is that the bricks used in the
construction bear Brahmin inscriptions which point to King Mahanaga’s
reign during third Century BC.
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Entrance to the Kataragama Devale. Pictures by Saman Sri
Wedage |
Within range of the Kiri Vehara there are a number of restored
smaller stupas, each which claims to be a burial chamber of a high
priest.
After the Kandyan Perehara had walked the streets, next up is the
journey to Kataragama. Not only is it one of the most sacred places of
worship for Buddhists but it is also a destination which links the
religious communities of the island together for Hindus, Muslims,
Catholics, Christians, indigenous Veddas as well as some South Indians
embark on pilgrimages to this rapidly developing southern coastal area
surrounded by thick jungles. Apart from offering Pooja Vatti (offering
baskets laden with fruits and flowers) lying on needles, hanging from
steel nails, rolling round the devala grounds, piercing the body with
sharp spikes are some of the acts of self mortification which the Hindu
devotees practise on behalf of the deity, Lord Muruga. Indeed some of
the rituals conducted during the period like the Kavadi dances and fire
walkers possess a novelty which identifies itself only with Kataragama.
The main devale is dedicated to God Kataragama but a notable amount
of small devales: the Gana Devale, Vishnu Devale and Suniyam Devale too
are part of the premises. Portraits depict the god riding a peacock and
possessing six faces with 12 hands are a popular sight within the walls
of the shrines.
Every year in August more and more pilgrims make their way in the
arduous heat and dusty roads, either along the coast or through
Ratnapura, to experience the serenity and spiritual bliss of the sacred
city of Kataragama.
It is the time of year when the Kataragama procession takes to the
streets with its fire walking and water cutting ceremonies which never
fail to draw curious stares from locals as well as foreigners. |
